Is this us? Ummm, hopefully not…
We choose not to talk about the ASP tour or (whatever you call it now) too much. You may have noticed. But it’s not for lack of psych on surfing. Or the boys who tear on the tour, because we’re fans of their ripping. It’s more about the disconnect we feel when it does this. A surfer, deep inside a closed off locker room, headphones on, entrenched in focus and fire and ritual. Seemingly turning everything that makes surfing the greatest lifestyle ever into a locker room hallway of doom and gloom.
A lot of people forget that it’s rarely about just “the activity” that makes surfing sick. It’s all the sick shit that comes with it: the excitement, anticipation, fun, psych and amp that comes to us on the car ride to the beach. The friendships. The parking lots. The late nights, the early mornings, the long flights, the daydreams, the long drives on moments notice. All the ridiculous shit we do. That’s what appeals to us. The surfing act is done, and it is as fun as anything we can imagine, but it leads to so many other things and it’s that part that makes it so great. So unique. So different. We just can’t allow ourselves to degrade it to a lonely locker room over sand.
We quit playing sports to be surfers. Not to be on the surf team.
Just a thought. And don’t get us started on the ASP desk on the beach shit… —Travis