This recent run of swell in California isn’t going to appear on CNN with Anderson Cooper. There won’t be any ridiculous interviews done on the back of Jet Skis by big wave enthusiasts. No one came close to drowning. And it probably isn’t going to garner a million likes or views (not enough cleavage). But for those who’ve gotten to surf some of it will tell you: this is why we do this shit. Fun, fun, fun. Sun, sun, sun. It’s only surfing, and we’ve been doing a lot of it.
This piece starring Kolohe Andino, Luke Davis, Ian Crane, Dylan Goodale and Jeremy Carter should give you an idea of what we mean. Super fun surfs, up and down the coast and a lot of fun in between. Enjoy, and then keep in mind: it’s still happening California! Only now it’s 100 degrees too.