Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Dane Reynolds and Jamie O’Brien, Canada 2006 Collected Thoughts 074

dane reynolds jamie obrein what youth canada surfing

It was most obvious when we were driving in the car. The drive was long from the ferry to our remote and tucked away tree house. Unending wilderness buzzed by and Nelly Furtado blared. Jamie-O sat shotgun armed with an iPod and USB access in the rental. Dane was in the backseat, unfazed and smirking at the bumping pop music selections and Jamie’s enthusiasm for it. Two of surfing’s most talented and rising stars juxtaposed perfectly. It was the first time I realized being a surfer could mean such different things, even to people who I assumed were such similar people.

Dane and Jamie got along great on the trip. Both did massive airs. Both were funny and easy going. We fished, made fires, did tow-ats, drank warm beer, dodged bears and waited out a serious flat spell. Our surf forecaster was a whiskey-throated logger from another island and he always had bad swell news.

So we sat. A lot. Talking shit. About space. And nothing. And everything. Dane drank his beer and read a Sylvia Plath novel while Jamie watched Fast and The Furious in our tree house with no electricity. It was really odd, but not at all an issue. Two polar opposites fused by a surf trip, hanging out.

I was there covering the trip for Surfing Magazine. It was my first real surf article and feature assignment (which is probably why we got skunked). I booked the flights, rallied Dane and Jamie, linked us up with Canada’s finest locals Raph and Sepp Bruihwiler and local photographer Jeremy Koreski. It was also the first time I met photographer Nate Lawrence as well. And it was a funny meeting, because Nate actually got turned around at the border because the Canadian officials saw that he had a “Minor in possession of alcohol” on his record from his early Santa Cruz party boy days. And so he was turned around. Yes, they turned him around for that. And only that. But he didn’t give up there. A few hours later, Nate flew back to Seattle, rented a car on his own and drove into Canada. Apparently the border crossing when you drive is a little less strict on incidents that occurred a decade earlier. Go figure. So then he commandeered his own plane ride from a tiny plane company called Atleo Air in Tofino and he glided in and landed directly in front of us, on the water, in a tiny sea plane only a few hours after we had arrived. He just jumped out, held his camera gear above the frigid water so it didn’t get wet, and walked right into a warm Lucky beer. Right then I knew Nate had it all figured out and we would be fast friends.

 

The reason I bring this trip up is because it’s interesting to look back at the path both these guys took. And how happy it makes me now thinking back on how blatantly themselves they’ve both been over the past 9 years. Neither let the influence of the surf industry sway them from that path either. Dane quit the tour. Jamie never even tried. Jamie lives in the pit at Pipe and can still do massive airs and made his very own niche, because the one he was meant to take didn’t appeal to him. Dane is Dane. Jamie is Jamie. And that is rad. —Travis

what youth collected thoughts craig anderson surfing in indonesia

Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts gunner day nate lawrence surfing

Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts colin moran nate lawrence

Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

Have surf magazines lost their minds? First off, surf photographers have always been creepy people. Writers, not much better. But it seems in my years dealing with surf magazines that the people in charge are usually pretty turned on. They know how to make a very selfish sport look fun and inviting. I always looked…

what youth collected thoughts nate lawrence photography surfing

Too Much Perfect in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 108

Living in Bali has it’s perks. It’s cheap, warm and has waves all year round. It also has it’s downsides. Traffic, pollution and kooks. But the perfect waves always conquer the cons when contemplating if there is a better place to live. But just recently the perfect waves didn’t seem so perfect. I found myself…

what youth nate lawrence collected thoughts indonesia

Nate Lawrence nearly robbed To get you this Collected Thought Number 107 lineup shot

I nearly got robbed trying to get a lineup shot. I probably deserved it though. After all, I am exposing surf spots. And taking photos of a wave and making it look prettier than it is. The wind? It was onshore. The crowd? It was packed. But that’s the thing with us sketchy photographers, it’s…

Dillon Perillo, Indo Collected Thoughts 106: “Dillon lost his mind out here, which is kind of like finding it for him.”

On an island in remote Indonesia, Dillon Perillo can finally surf again. 5 hour sessions in the middle of the day with no one out. And then again just before sunset. This is not Malibu. —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts chippa wilson surfing bali indonesia

Chippa Wilson on the “Duo”, Bali Collected Thoughts 105

I was pretty amazed when Chippa pulled out this Neil Purchase Jr surfboard with only 2 fins and decided to ride it at pumping Uluwatu. The takeoffs were late and the drops were steep, but it didn’t hinder Chippa’s surfing. The positions in which he was riding the waves were something I hadn’t seen before.

what youth surfing indonesia bali

The Bukit Peninsula Collected Thoughts 104

The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun….

what youth julian wilson surfing bali

Julian Wilson in Bali Collected Thoughts 103

Still think spraying someone who’s paddling over the shoulder is one of the best things (and brattiest) in surfing. Julian Wilson partakes in Bali recently. —Nate Lawrence

Collected Thoughts 101 Bronson Meidy

Bronson Meidy, 12, Keramas Collected Thoughts 102

There’s a new kid to the surf scene in Bali. His name is Bronson Meidy and he just turned 12 this week. I usually don’t like to say anything about kids this young because you just want them to be kids. Eating candy and shit. Not worrying about sponsors and sticker placement. Just going surfing…

what youth surfing indonesia

The Indian Ocean Spotlight: beach parties, waves and Scandinavian women Collected Thoughts 101

The Indian Ocean is back in the spotlight. Swells are stacking up and surfers are busy paying excess baggage on flights. So what’s new? It’s still hot, dirty and full of Brazilians. There’s still corruption and crazy tourists. People are still getting crunched my motorbikes daily. But there are parties every night and Scandinavian women…

what youth chippa wilson surfing bali

Chippa Wilson, Bali 2016 Collected Thoughts 100

“Sometimes it feels so good to dig your back hand in the water and do a nice Larry layback. Chippa in Bali recently unveiling his new Brixton stickers.” —Nate Lawrence

Sign up for letters from What Youth


By enabling this page, you are acknowledging and accepting our privacy terms and conditions.