Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Dane Reynolds and Jamie O’Brien, Canada 2006 Collected Thoughts 074

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It was most obvious when we were driving in the car. The drive was long from the ferry to our remote and tucked away tree house. Unending wilderness buzzed by and Nelly Furtado blared. Jamie-O sat shotgun armed with an iPod and USB access in the rental. Dane was in the backseat, unfazed and smirking at the bumping pop music selections and Jamie’s enthusiasm for it. Two of surfing’s most talented and rising stars juxtaposed perfectly. It was the first time I realized being a surfer could mean such different things, even to people who I assumed were such similar people.

Dane and Jamie got along great on the trip. Both did massive airs. Both were funny and easy going. We fished, made fires, did tow-ats, drank warm beer, dodged bears and waited out a serious flat spell. Our surf forecaster was a whiskey-throated logger from another island and he always had bad swell news.

So we sat. A lot. Talking shit. About space. And nothing. And everything. Dane drank his beer and read a Sylvia Plath novel while Jamie watched Fast and The Furious in our tree house with no electricity. It was really odd, but not at all an issue. Two polar opposites fused by a surf trip, hanging out.

I was there covering the trip for Surfing Magazine. It was my first real surf article and feature assignment (which is probably why we got skunked). I booked the flights, rallied Dane and Jamie, linked us up with Canada’s finest locals Raph and Sepp Bruihwiler and local photographer Jeremy Koreski. It was also the first time I met photographer Nate Lawrence as well. And it was a funny meeting, because Nate actually got turned around at the border because the Canadian officials saw that he had a “Minor in possession of alcohol” on his record from his early Santa Cruz party boy days. And so he was turned around. Yes, they turned him around for that. And only that. But he didn’t give up there. A few hours later, Nate flew back to Seattle, rented a car on his own and drove into Canada. Apparently the border crossing when you drive is a little less strict on incidents that occurred a decade earlier. Go figure. So then he commandeered his own plane ride from a tiny plane company called Atleo Air in Tofino and he glided in and landed directly in front of us, on the water, in a tiny sea plane only a few hours after we had arrived. He just jumped out, held his camera gear above the frigid water so it didn’t get wet, and walked right into a warm Lucky beer. Right then I knew Nate had it all figured out and we would be fast friends.

 

The reason I bring this trip up is because it’s interesting to look back at the path both these guys took. And how happy it makes me now thinking back on how blatantly themselves they’ve both been over the past 9 years. Neither let the influence of the surf industry sway them from that path either. Dane quit the tour. Jamie never even tried. Jamie lives in the pit at Pipe and can still do massive airs and made his very own niche, because the one he was meant to take didn’t appeal to him. Dane is Dane. Jamie is Jamie. And that is rad. —Travis

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Nate’s Back where the water is warm Collected Thoughts 123: After a stint in CA, Nate’s back in the tropics

“Man, it’s nice being back in the tropics…” —Nate Lawrence

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Yago Dora, Indonesia, 2016 Collected Thoughts 122

“There was a time in my life that I could do nothing except think about Macaroni’s. Like every day I would think – how am I going to get there. I think Yago thought the same thing on our trip. He was on another boat trip and was supposed to hop straight onto ours. It…

what youth collected thouthgs Kolohe Andino photographed by Nate Lawrence

Kolohe Andino, Bali 2013 Collected Thoughts 121

“Nobody’s perfect, and we love that.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth dion agius photographed by nate lawrence

Dion Agius, Hossegor, 2015 Collected Thoughts 120

“I first saw Dion on the cover of Transworld Surf magazine. It was a D.Hump flash photo that popped Dion onto the map in America. He was young. He was Australian. That was pretty much all I knew about him. Fast forward 12 years and still, a lot of people don’t know much about Dion….

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Collected Thoughts 119 Nate Lawrence mind surfing Indonesia

“I always look at photos of Greenbush, and wonder why the guy isn’t taking off behind the peak…” —Nate Lawrence

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Collected Thoughts 118 Stretch Surfboards shaping room, 2013

“I’ve always had a fascination with surfboard shapers. Mainly because they are really weird and mostly crazy. And I like crazy. Growing up in Santa Cruz and visiting a few of the local shapers, I started to see some similarities. Empty cans of Coors Light. Photos on the walls of mostly naked women and day-of-the-decade…

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Mason Ho doesn’t have bad surfs Collected Thoughts 117 with Nate Lawrence

“Does Mason ever have a bad surf? Nope.” —Nate Lawrence

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Dane Reynolds, Honest in Chapter 11 Collected Thoughts 116

“If you haven’t already watched Dane’s new film, Chapter 11, go watch it now. It is one of the most honest pieces on surfing that I have ever seen. As a huge fan of Dane Reynolds, I have liked almost everything he has ever been involved in. First Chapter. Young Guns. His section in Campaign…

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When Obama got Elected Collected Thoughts 115: Nate Lawrence’s view from abroad

I was in Senegal, West Africa when Obama got inaugurated for the first time. There was a sense of excitement and joy wherever I traveled for that next year. As an expat living overseas I had been saying I was Canadian when people asked. It was the safe thing to do, especially in Muslim countries…

Frame Grabs aren’t taking over. Yet. Collected Thoughts 114: Nate Lawrence on the new Canon 1DX Mark II

I recently saw a photo from a Canon event where editors from Surfing Magazine were giving a talk. A big pull quote was streaming from a projector saying, “THE DIGITAL CAMERA WAS JUST A TEMPORARY BRIDGE FROM FILM TO FRAME GRABS” —Peter Taras There’s been a bit of talk recently about Canon’s new 1DX Mark…

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Gunner Day Driving Through Indo Collected Thoughts 113: What makes this kid any different?

So you’re 16 and an up-and-coming professional surfer from San Clemente…so what? There are a lot of those. Like a lot.  T Street looks like an Olympic training ground of fluorescent wetsuits these days.  So what are you suppose to do to stand out in the surf world? Is it the QS grind three to the beach and a…

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Luke Hynd at The Bush Collected Thoughts 112: Timmy Ridenour talks about shooting Greenbush from the water

I would like to tell you about me being scared. And the dangers of swimming 8- to 10-foot Green Bush at close proximity to the reef with a very large camera. I assure you it’s a scary place at any breakable size and I was scared. But in the split second this photo was taken…

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