Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Dane Reynolds and Jamie O’Brien, Canada 2006 Collected Thoughts 074

dane reynolds jamie obrein what youth canada surfing

It was most obvious when we were driving in the car. The drive was long from the ferry to our remote and tucked away tree house. Unending wilderness buzzed by and Nelly Furtado blared. Jamie-O sat shotgun armed with an iPod and USB access in the rental. Dane was in the backseat, unfazed and smirking at the bumping pop music selections and Jamie’s enthusiasm for it. Two of surfing’s most talented and rising stars juxtaposed perfectly. It was the first time I realized being a surfer could mean such different things, even to people who I assumed were such similar people.

Dane and Jamie got along great on the trip. Both did massive airs. Both were funny and easy going. We fished, made fires, did tow-ats, drank warm beer, dodged bears and waited out a serious flat spell. Our surf forecaster was a whiskey-throated logger from another island and he always had bad swell news.

So we sat. A lot. Talking shit. About space. And nothing. And everything. Dane drank his beer and read a Sylvia Plath novel while Jamie watched Fast and The Furious in our tree house with no electricity. It was really odd, but not at all an issue. Two polar opposites fused by a surf trip, hanging out.

I was there covering the trip for Surfing Magazine. It was my first real surf article and feature assignment (which is probably why we got skunked). I booked the flights, rallied Dane and Jamie, linked us up with Canada’s finest locals Raph and Sepp Bruihwiler and local photographer Jeremy Koreski. It was also the first time I met photographer Nate Lawrence as well. And it was a funny meeting, because Nate actually got turned around at the border because the Canadian officials saw that he had a “Minor in possession of alcohol” on his record from his early Santa Cruz party boy days. And so he was turned around. Yes, they turned him around for that. And only that. But he didn’t give up there. A few hours later, Nate flew back to Seattle, rented a car on his own and drove into Canada. Apparently the border crossing when you drive is a little less strict on incidents that occurred a decade earlier. Go figure. So then he commandeered his own plane ride from a tiny plane company called Atleo Air in Tofino and he glided in and landed directly in front of us, on the water, in a tiny sea plane only a few hours after we had arrived. He just jumped out, held his camera gear above the frigid water so it didn’t get wet, and walked right into a warm Lucky beer. Right then I knew Nate had it all figured out and we would be fast friends.

 

The reason I bring this trip up is because it’s interesting to look back at the path both these guys took. And how happy it makes me now thinking back on how blatantly themselves they’ve both been over the past 9 years. Neither let the influence of the surf industry sway them from that path either. Dane quit the tour. Jamie never even tried. Jamie lives in the pit at Pipe and can still do massive airs and made his very own niche, because the one he was meant to take didn’t appeal to him. Dane is Dane. Jamie is Jamie. And that is rad. —Travis

Craig Anderson in New Zealand Dear Suburbia What Youth

Craig Anderson, Shark VS. Cow Collected Thoughts 015

This is Craig on all fours kind of barrel-rolling down the beach. Why does he roll? For a frank lack of things to do, really. For diversion when diversion was scarce. Why was it scarce? This was after five days straight of no surf on a trip that, at the moment of Craig’s roll, was…

Dusty Payne What Youth

Dusty Payne, Tim McGraw & Kenny Chesney in Anaheim Collected Thoughts 014

He wore Wranglers. Navy blue. A straw cowboy hat and a plaid button-down over a plain white Volcom tee. And boots. Real, honest-to-God, brown leather cowboy boots. After flying direct from Minneapolis, Minnesota — where he went for three days of intense rehab (the doctors claimed Dusty packed about six weeks of therapy into three…

Kolohe Andino What Youth

Kolohe Breaking News Collected Thoughts 013

A little espresso. A small bottle of Mexican cola. And away we went. Kolohe hobbled into the brand new Zebra House Café in San Clemente with me last week. He wore Oakleys and they dangled from a pair of Croakies. He had on one sandle and he was on crutches. His left foot in a…

Dion Agius What Youth

Dion in uniform Collected Thoughts 012

Helicopter pilot Russian Director (mostly foreign art house) Arms dealer/warlord Ringo Starr Warehouse stock worker Bodyguard Installation artist Coach to the German gymnastic team Taxi driver Member of the Weather Underground Sheep farmer   There are many things you’d guess before “surfer” if someone asked you to identify this stranger above. “Waterman” and “professional athlete”…

Mitch Coleborn in Australia phtographed by Kai Neville What Youth

Mitch Coleborn and the modern chair Collected Thoughts 011

That chair to Mitch’s left looks almost like it was inspired by the Bertoia Diamond Lounge chair, a midcentury classic designed by Harry Bertoia. The main difference is that this chair here is wood, whereas the Diamond Lounge was wire mesh and pioneered the use of that material in modern furniture design. It made Bertoia…

Dillon Perillo What Youth

Dillon on a Temporary Vacation Collected Thoughts 010

Coolangatta in its autumn can be a humane society, by which ironically I mean an inhuman sort of animal society. Especially for the surfer. Lots of girls and lots of waves, but you catch something from the girls, and you never catch the waves, so either way it’s a good time to leave. Jack Freestone…

Dane Reynolds and Courtney Jadke in San Francisco on Halloween photographed by Kai Neville What Youth

Dane and Courtney on Bart Collected Thoughts 009

PHOTO: Kai Neville San Francisco | October 31st, 2011 There was a contest starting the next day. The Rip Curl Pro Search, SF. Rad comp. Rad city. Rad holiday. It was all happening. Dane had first heat the next morning, of course, But it was Halloween and the show must go on. Besides, a stop…

Chippa Wilson photographed by Nate Lawrence What Youth

Chippa Wilson on the stoop Collected Thoughts 008

Here’s Chippa outside the rental he shared with Mitch and Craig on their trip into the Australian desert, where their minds drifted into a pleasant psychosis commonly called “desert fever” and they began to see things. Like tubes. Tubes and ramps. Chippa recalls the experience: I didn’t even check if there were good waves there,…

Helena For Dear Suburbia Kai Neville What Youth

From the Dear Suburbia Official Studio Shoot, 2012 Collected Thoughts 007

Why is this girl from Copenhagen vacuuming sand off a lobster in high-wasted denim? Well, why comb your hair? Why lie to seem friendly? Why sleep at nighttime? Why wear purple trousers, or why not? Why is your best friend a screen? Why spend time water-sliding on a plastic toy plank? One thing makes as…

Kai Neville editing Dear Suburbia What Youth

Sugarloaf Diaries Collected Thoughts 006

Poetry is dead. The web clip killed surfing. What’s a blowtail? The barrel is back. Big-budget soundtracks. Bill fucking Murray. It’s a spiced rum. The mountains are purple and the red wine is uncorked. Kai’s nearly finished the rough edit of Dear Suburbia, which we’ll preview here at the studio in a matter of days….

Dillon Perillo What Youth

Dillon Got Keyed Collected Thoughts 005

This was after Dillon’s rental car got keyed in a Yamba parking lot while he was surfing. The keyer’s total lack of ingenuity is what was most disappointing. He could have taken his vandalism in so many directions. Like, he could have been clever and scratched “MY BACK,” or been artsy and written a sonnet,…

Kolohe Andino thrift shopping photographed by Nate Lawrence What Youth

Kolohe at the rack Collected Thoughts 004

Kolohe thrifting in New South Wales, because vintage is the RAGE. Why get endless free shit from your industry-leading global sportswear sponsor, when you can pay good money for a used musty button-down that someone might have died in? Hey, sick shirt though.

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