Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Dane Reynolds and Jamie O’Brien, Canada 2006 Collected Thoughts 074

dane reynolds jamie obrein what youth canada surfing

It was most obvious when we were driving in the car. The drive was long from the ferry to our remote and tucked away tree house. Unending wilderness buzzed by and Nelly Furtado blared. Jamie-O sat shotgun armed with an iPod and USB access in the rental. Dane was in the backseat, unfazed and smirking at the bumping pop music selections and Jamie’s enthusiasm for it. Two of surfing’s most talented and rising stars juxtaposed perfectly. It was the first time I realized being a surfer could mean such different things, even to people who I assumed were such similar people.

Dane and Jamie got along great on the trip. Both did massive airs. Both were funny and easy going. We fished, made fires, did tow-ats, drank warm beer, dodged bears and waited out a serious flat spell. Our surf forecaster was a whiskey-throated logger from another island and he always had bad swell news.

So we sat. A lot. Talking shit. About space. And nothing. And everything. Dane drank his beer and read a Sylvia Plath novel while Jamie watched Fast and The Furious in our tree house with no electricity. It was really odd, but not at all an issue. Two polar opposites fused by a surf trip, hanging out.

I was there covering the trip for Surfing Magazine. It was my first real surf article and feature assignment (which is probably why we got skunked). I booked the flights, rallied Dane and Jamie, linked us up with Canada’s finest locals Raph and Sepp Bruihwiler and local photographer Jeremy Koreski. It was also the first time I met photographer Nate Lawrence as well. And it was a funny meeting, because Nate actually got turned around at the border because the Canadian officials saw that he had a “Minor in possession of alcohol” on his record from his early Santa Cruz party boy days. And so he was turned around. Yes, they turned him around for that. And only that. But he didn’t give up there. A few hours later, Nate flew back to Seattle, rented a car on his own and drove into Canada. Apparently the border crossing when you drive is a little less strict on incidents that occurred a decade earlier. Go figure. So then he commandeered his own plane ride from a tiny plane company called Atleo Air in Tofino and he glided in and landed directly in front of us, on the water, in a tiny sea plane only a few hours after we had arrived. He just jumped out, held his camera gear above the frigid water so it didn’t get wet, and walked right into a warm Lucky beer. Right then I knew Nate had it all figured out and we would be fast friends.

 

The reason I bring this trip up is because it’s interesting to look back at the path both these guys took. And how happy it makes me now thinking back on how blatantly themselves they’ve both been over the past 9 years. Neither let the influence of the surf industry sway them from that path either. Dane quit the tour. Jamie never even tried. Jamie lives in the pit at Pipe and can still do massive airs and made his very own niche, because the one he was meant to take didn’t appeal to him. Dane is Dane. Jamie is Jamie. And that is rad. —Travis

Tom Lowe, British Surfer, Nate Lawrence

Who’s that British madman? Collected Thoughts 135: The first time Nate Lawrence saw Tom Lowe paddle past him

Editor’s Note: You know we’re up to something when a dude like Tom Lowe’s name starts coming up. The British surfer smiles in the face of horror, and he’s been on our radar and in our inbox. Here’s some scary info from Nate Lawrence about him. Stay tuned for what we’re up to.—Travis  This might…

what youth ryan burch punching a rock by nate lawrence

There was a fight on a surf podcast Collected Thoughts 134: Nate Lawrence on the near violence on Surf Splendor

It’s 5 a.m. and I’m sitting on the couch at WY’s Scott Chenoweth’s house in Long Beach — wide awake because I just heard a car getting broke into right outside. I can’t sleep so I end up in the vortex of my phone and find myself hitting a link to a podcast featuring Beach Grit’s…

what youth jordy smith surfing in west oz photographd by nate lawrence

Jordy Smith, West Oz in trunks Collected Thoughts 133

Jordy is one of the easiest guys to take photos of surfing. He lands most of his airs and always entertains. On this day, Jordy was surfing in board shorts in the chilly waters of West Oz. O’Neill needed board short photos and instead of flying somewhere warm to do the shoot, Jordy just surfed…

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Garut Widiarta at Padang Padang Collected Thoughts 132: More Indo gold with Nate Lawrence

Garut Widiarta has been surfing out at Padang Padang since he was a little kid. And while he still looks like a little kid, his surfing does not. Recently it turned on for a few hours with only a handful of guys out and Garut was doing turns like these… ? —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts nate lawrence ian crane surfing indo

Deserted Deserts Collected Thoughts 131: Nate Lawrence checks in from the road with Ian Crane and Evan Geiselman

There’s no shortage of swell. And there’s no shortage of hype. People love to talk about the next swell….But how’s the one out the back?! After surfing in Bali with 93 other guys, Evan and Crane rented and car and drove straight to the ferry. No sleep and some bed bug bites later they saw…

what youth nate lawrence collected thoughts

More of the Same Same Collected Thoughts 130: Year of the fucking drone.

“So here we are. 2017. Year of the fucking drone. We’re pretty far behind schedule, according to Marty McFly. But finally every single person in the world owns a drone. Yay! And now we get to look at even more of the same same. Same beach. Same angle. Different caption. (insert grammatical error here) The…

what youth mitch coleborn nate lawrence surfing

Mitch Coleborn in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 129

“Surfing will always have those off-moments that make you pause and really appreciate the place we get to play.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts Bali Nate Lawrence

The Inside Section Collected Thoughts 128: Nate Lawrence is at it again

Editor’s Note: Nate doesn’t realize how messed up this is, sending us these insane, casual lineups from the weekend when we’re in the sharky doldrums of summer, and he’s running through race tracks like this. That being said, might be time we join him, back on the road…  “The inside section, looking oh-so fun on a…

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A John John Florence Prediction Collected Thoughts 127: Nate Lawrence chimes in on the sporting side of things

“There’s been plenty to talk about with the WSL recently. Most of it about the horrible advertisements and even worse music coinciding with the WSL. But I got to thinking after watching the 2nd round of the NBA Playoffs and how un-competitive it has been — it’s almost like the WSL. Kelly Slater was Michael…

what youth indo nate lawrence surfing waves

My Indo Dream Wave Collected Thoughts 126: Nate Lawrence and the wave that started his Indo Obsession

“For the better part of my teenage years I drooled at photos of this wave. I still do today” —Nate Lawrence Editor’s Note: Nate Lawrence was there to document this wave when it was new. Timmy Tuner and Brett Schwartz and Travis Potter would venture to the jungles of Indo, get dropped off and wait for…

what youth nate lawrence bali surfing waves

New Swell in Bali Collected Thoughts 125

“The swell is filing in and we found a nice right all to ourselves. Bali bagus.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth john john florence photographed by nate lawrence

John John Florence, 14 for Five years Collected Thoughts 124

Looking at this photo, it seems like so long ago. John John was this young, long haired blonde kid who surfed Pipe. I remember seeing him paddling out in pretty big conditions and thinking that he was going to drown. But he didn’t. And then he caught one of those big waves. But that’s all…

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