Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

A dispatch on airwind from C.S. Louis in South Africa Collected Thoughts 057

Noa Deane South Africa what youth

Editor’s note: For those of you familiar with our printed books, you may recognize the name C.S. Louis from a variety of pieces he’s written in them. He’s long-winded and a literary and literal contradiction. But he keeps us on our toes and always shoots us straight. He ran into Brendon Gibbens and Noa Deane in Cape Town yesterday.

All “the boys” do is talk about ramps. They topple over and roll around on the ground each time one forms for an instant. One could argue it’s not even surfing that they perform. The waves are terrible by all traditional measures, and the average surfer can relate to Noa Deane and Brendon Gibbens’ approach in South Africa about much as they can paddling Jaws.

The lazy sunbathers on a Sunday drive have no clue what the boys are doing out there bobbing about. One car stops, and then two, and then fifteen cars watch and wait for fly-aways and ill-fated landings to flat. Middle-aged women in striped tops and their tennis-sweater cloaked husbands clap and gasp and exclaim in a way not unlike Brendon had been minutes earlier. Noa must be in disbelief at this certainly non-spectacular roadside spectacle.

Noa is so relaxed. He’s lying face down on a mountainside patch with BG (Brendon Gibbens) pulling at his arms trying to paddle through the roadside gravel or some trippy shit. They’re at the foot of a peninsula dividing ridge where mist sits fifty meters in the sky driven by eddies and local lore. Noa doesn’t know to be anxious about the surf. He is unaware of what lurks along the graduating sand bar or that he’s about to leap several feet over a jagged ledge to narrowly avert disaster at the rock-kissed shoreline. Brendon does. He’s knows all about it. He’s just about the only one here each day. Exclaiming and hopping about, yelping each time a ramp appears and disappears. And although this swell magnet strip has its day, today is not it. But no bother because Noa is relaxed and BG is fucking psyching and they haven’t seen each other since France or Copenhagen or something.

The fly-aways ebb and the middle-class contingent dwindles as they are replaced by Chacma baboons that seem less interested. The adults lie lazily primping while the kids cause a fucking ruckus. But the adults only stare, seeming to shake their heads at this display of mis-spent youth searching for fucking air wind. —CS Louis

what youth collected thoughts craig anderson surfing in indonesia

Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

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Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts colin moran nate lawrence

Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

Have surf magazines lost their minds? First off, surf photographers have always been creepy people. Writers, not much better. But it seems in my years dealing with surf magazines that the people in charge are usually pretty turned on. They know how to make a very selfish sport look fun and inviting. I always looked…

what youth collected thoughts nate lawrence photography surfing

Too Much Perfect in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 108

Living in Bali has it’s perks. It’s cheap, warm and has waves all year round. It also has it’s downsides. Traffic, pollution and kooks. But the perfect waves always conquer the cons when contemplating if there is a better place to live. But just recently the perfect waves didn’t seem so perfect. I found myself…

what youth nate lawrence collected thoughts indonesia

Nate Lawrence nearly robbed To get you this Collected Thought Number 107 lineup shot

I nearly got robbed trying to get a lineup shot. I probably deserved it though. After all, I am exposing surf spots. And taking photos of a wave and making it look prettier than it is. The wind? It was onshore. The crowd? It was packed. But that’s the thing with us sketchy photographers, it’s…

Dillon Perillo, Indo Collected Thoughts 106: “Dillon lost his mind out here, which is kind of like finding it for him.”

On an island in remote Indonesia, Dillon Perillo can finally surf again. 5 hour sessions in the middle of the day with no one out. And then again just before sunset. This is not Malibu. —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts chippa wilson surfing bali indonesia

Chippa Wilson on the “Duo”, Bali Collected Thoughts 105

I was pretty amazed when Chippa pulled out this Neil Purchase Jr surfboard with only 2 fins and decided to ride it at pumping Uluwatu. The takeoffs were late and the drops were steep, but it didn’t hinder Chippa’s surfing. The positions in which he was riding the waves were something I hadn’t seen before.

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The Bukit Peninsula Collected Thoughts 104

The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun….

what youth julian wilson surfing bali

Julian Wilson in Bali Collected Thoughts 103

Still think spraying someone who’s paddling over the shoulder is one of the best things (and brattiest) in surfing. Julian Wilson partakes in Bali recently. —Nate Lawrence

Collected Thoughts 101 Bronson Meidy

Bronson Meidy, 12, Keramas Collected Thoughts 102

There’s a new kid to the surf scene in Bali. His name is Bronson Meidy and he just turned 12 this week. I usually don’t like to say anything about kids this young because you just want them to be kids. Eating candy and shit. Not worrying about sponsors and sticker placement. Just going surfing…

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The Indian Ocean Spotlight: beach parties, waves and Scandinavian women Collected Thoughts 101

The Indian Ocean is back in the spotlight. Swells are stacking up and surfers are busy paying excess baggage on flights. So what’s new? It’s still hot, dirty and full of Brazilians. There’s still corruption and crazy tourists. People are still getting crunched my motorbikes daily. But there are parties every night and Scandinavian women…

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Chippa Wilson, Bali 2016 Collected Thoughts 100

“Sometimes it feels so good to dig your back hand in the water and do a nice Larry layback. Chippa in Bali recently unveiling his new Brixton stickers.” —Nate Lawrence

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