Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Bullshit rodeo in Spain durring filming for This Is Us: France Collected Thoughts 054

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As Dane Reynolds pointed out to us yesterday on Instagram, there is a new film coming out called, “This is Us.” It is about the boy band One Directions and the trailer has 11 million views — so it would appear they’re doing quite well. Psyched for them. Funny, the concept isn’t much different than ours either, only we go to bullfights and shit.
Like this one here. Wade Goodall, Noa Deane, Brendon Gibbens and Dion Agius went to this local bullfight in Spain when the waves went flat in France. We brown bagged it with a few beers and watched some local madmen jump over, tease and dance with the bulls. And while many of you may have already fake read Hemingway’s classic story The Sun Also Rises, it’s always nice to chew on an excerpt from Hemingway. He knows how to describe a bullfight. Maybe even better than me.
So to recap: I’ve mentioned Dane Reynolds, One Direction, bullfighting and Ernest Hemingway in 3 paragraphs. I’m clocking out.
Excerpt from Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises
“My God, isn’t he beautiful?” Brett said. We were looking right down on him.
“Look how he knows how to use his horns,” I said. “He’s got a left and a right just like a boxer.”
“Not really?”
“You watch.”
“It goes too fast.”
“Wait. There’ll be another one in a minute.”
They had backed up another cage into the entrance. In the far corner a man, from behind one of the plank shelters, attracted the bull, and while the bull was facing away the gate was pulled up and a second bull came out into the corral.
He charged straight for the steers and two men ran out from behind the planks and shouted, to turn him. He did not change his direction and the men shouted: “Hah! Hah! Toro!” and waved their arms; the two steers turned sideways to take the shock, and the bull drove into one of the steers.
“Don’t look,” I said to Brett. She was watching, fascinated.
“Fine,” I said. “If it doesn’t buck you.”
“I saw it,” she said. “I saw him shift from his left to his right horn.”
“Damn good!”
The steer was down now, his neck stretched out, his head twisted, he lay the way he had fallen. Suddenly the bull left off and made for the other steer which had been standing at the far end, his head swinging, watching it all. The steer ran awkwardly and the bull caught him, hooked him lightly in the flank, and then turned away and looked up at the crowd on the walls, his crest of muscle rising. The steer came up to him and made as though to nose at him and the bull hooked perfunctorily. The next time he nosed at the steer and then the two of them trotted over to the other bull.

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Bali Boys in Hawaii Collected Thoughts 087

“This is a photo of the Bali Boys in Hawaii almost a decade ago. They always had a good connection with the Hawaiians because in the summer all the Hawaiians would come get barreled in Indo. This photo was shot at Kahea Hart’s house where a lot of them stayed. I think most of the…

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Luke Stedman, Fa Empel, Taj Burrow and Sam Macintosh in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 086

“Luke Stedmen, Fa Empel, Taj Burrow and Sam Macintosh [Founder of Stab]. We were on our way back from the Mentawai Islands on a charter boat and we weren’t going make our flight in time. So the five of us had to get up at 4 a.m., load all our stuff on the dinghy and drive on…

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Go way back with Nat Young, Alana Blanchard and Kolohe Andino Collected Thoughts 085

“This photo brings so much joy to my face. It was shot in the middle of the Indian Ocean during a perfect week of waves. I was shooting some portraits of the 3 Americans and then all of a sudden Kolohe went for this pose and created one of the best photos from the entire…

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Pete Mel in Santa Cruz Collected Thoughts 084

“Pete Mel is a fucking boss. He’s one of my favorite humans ever. I shot this photo of him in front of his house when he lived in Santa Cruz. This was one of his favorite boards to surf Maverick’s on. And Pete was one of the original guys from Santa Cruz to really tackle…

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How in the hell did we surf in baggy trunks? Collected Thoughts 083

“The only reason you are looking at this photo is to see the length of the boardshorts that we all used to surf in. How in the hell did we do it?” —Nate Lawrence

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Dane Reynolds in Santa Cruz Collected Thoughts 082

“I think Dane was in Santa Cruz for the Cold Water Classic this year. The weather was warm and the waves were nonstop that year. I remember being so excited because Dane Reynolds was coming to my home town. I got to show him a few spots around town and a few times my friends…

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Mark Healey and Jesse Merle Jones Collected Thoughts 081

Healey and Merle. How good are these two humans! This photo was taken during my first real season spending time on the North Shore for Surfing Magazine. I wanted to photograph people in their homes and not the “team houses”. I liked each adventure of finding the house or room or tent that guys were…

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Gavin Beschen backside Collected Thoughts 080

Yep that’s a DVS sticker on Gavin’s board. This photo was shot almost 9 years ago, and not much has changed. Gavin is still shredding just about as hard as anyone and with the smoothest style.—Nate Lawrence

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Chris Ward, Padang Collected Thoughts 079

Editor’s note: Scotty Hammonds is from Encinitas, CA and probably surfs better than a lot of the people he shoots photos of. I like when that happens. Nate Lawrence does the same to people. Anyway, Scotty’s been floating around and living in Bali the past few years, shooting and surfing and he recently linked up…

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Tom Curren in France Collected Thoughts 078

Tom Curren in France during a warm September day surfing La Graviere. What else could you ask for? The sandbar this year was so perfect. It was 10 years ago but I remember it like it was yesterday. I drove up the coast from Biarritz with Luke Stedman and it was perfect offshore and barreling…

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Dane Reynolds and Jamie O’Brien, Canada, 2006 Collected Thoughts 077

I can almost guarantee you’ll never see this happen again. Dane getting towed behind a Jet Ski with Jamie O driving. In a river. With a waterfall behind them. In Canada. I think that’s Chris Burkard shooting in the foreground, can’t remember. His angle captures a moose drinking water from the river with the northern…

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Remember Ghost Tree? Collected Thoughts 076

Remember Ghost Tree? And Mouse Rock? What happened to the two most photogenic slabs in California? Well, people found out that jet ski’s were cheating and to be a professional big-wave surfer you needed to pull out a big board and paddle in with your two arms. In the early 2000’s, a purple blob with…

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