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Dillon’s Travelogue, Continued Collected Thoughts 027

Dillon Perillo poetry What Youth
11.08.12 – TAGS: ,

PHOTO: Neville

By Dillon Perillo, from Portugal (see Dillon’s first European journal entry here)

I’m shoveling my feet along the Portuguese pavilion looking for food. With my blood sugar bottoming out I become exasperated with life. Everything about it, the girls, money, status, even the art of digesting frustrates me like a spoiled little boy not getting what is wanted.

Then I think about other people who have what I don’t and their lives become more alluring than mine and this state of envy overtakes me and I am weak.

So I query: Why do certain people benefit more than others? Should I surf more? Successful people benefit the most and if I keep surfing I could be more successful, hence reaping benefits. Girls. Cute, tan blonde girls. My only problem is that I think that if I keep surfing I will fail in life and not become the beneficial human I can be.

Why? I want to be a successfully intelligent man rather than a successful boob. I wish I could just settle among the semi-smart bourgeois. But I want to be an intelligent aristocrat! I want to know about everything! Politics and science, and to be cosmopolitan. I’m the greediest man alive.

Life in this foreignly linguistic socialist country bores me, dull as a butter knife. I want to return to a land of democracy and English, somewhere I feel understood. But even my home mistakes me for me. For maybe I’m too complex even for myself to understand. I have just broken up with my girlfriend out of the blue using the word “travel” as an excuse. Is that fair? Is that morbidly hurtful? I feel nothing. I must move on with my life and hopefully she the same. I am sorry I am sorry I am sorry I am sorry, I don’t know the reason but I am sorry.

(Photo: Kai Neville)

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Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

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Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

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Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

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Too Much Perfect in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 108

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Nate Lawrence nearly robbed To get you this Collected Thought Number 107 lineup shot

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Dillon Perillo, Indo Collected Thoughts 106: “Dillon lost his mind out here, which is kind of like finding it for him.”

On an island in remote Indonesia, Dillon Perillo can finally surf again. 5 hour sessions in the middle of the day with no one out. And then again just before sunset. This is not Malibu. —Nate Lawrence

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Chippa Wilson on the “Duo”, Bali Collected Thoughts 105

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The Bukit Peninsula Collected Thoughts 104

The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun….

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Julian Wilson in Bali Collected Thoughts 103

Still think spraying someone who’s paddling over the shoulder is one of the best things (and brattiest) in surfing. Julian Wilson partakes in Bali recently. —Nate Lawrence

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Bronson Meidy, 12, Keramas Collected Thoughts 102

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The Indian Ocean Spotlight: beach parties, waves and Scandinavian women Collected Thoughts 101

The Indian Ocean is back in the spotlight. Swells are stacking up and surfers are busy paying excess baggage on flights. So what’s new? It’s still hot, dirty and full of Brazilians. There’s still corruption and crazy tourists. People are still getting crunched my motorbikes daily. But there are parties every night and Scandinavian women…

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Chippa Wilson, Bali 2016 Collected Thoughts 100

“Sometimes it feels so good to dig your back hand in the water and do a nice Larry layback. Chippa in Bali recently unveiling his new Brixton stickers.” —Nate Lawrence

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