Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Journal entry numero who gives a fuck Collected Thoughts 025

Dillon Perillo in France
10.09.12 – TAGS: ,

(Photo: Alex Laurel)

By Dillon Perillo

(Short easy not the end more to come prose #needsimprovement. —Dillon, sent from on the road in Europe)

A whole life. I wait for my flight. I wait for it to land. I wait for my ride that hopefully picks me up.

What the fuck am I doing writing prose like this? I’m a near-retarded surfer. I’ve been reading too much. Too much Fante. But it helps relieve from the surf trends that numb my brain and helps me to better understand real life situations because my life isn’t real life.

I’m aware of this. I’m sitting in an airport lounge no better than a rat hole listening to all of Portugal’s problems play on television in the background. It’s almost hard to concentrate. I can hardly spell concentrate.

I spent my whole day driving with my friend around this island in search of lagoons and street art. Mysterious street art. Completely random but there’s not much else to life here. It’s rare for me to travel to a place where the land is more than a sideshow. It’s very enjoyable and it’s aided us here. I try to discover the different qualities and it keeps me from reverting to my home life where everything is supremely conventional.

I came here from New York. New York was great. I think it changed my life, but ask anyone about the effect New York had on their life and they would have the same annoying answer. But it did. It’s magic and it’s extremely gigantic and endless and never boring. It’s transformed me into a wanderer and nuisance. I feel dirty and careless but I think it’s good and great for me. I am happy to sit around. I saw a lake today and I’m calling this a journal entry. Journal entry numero who gives a fuck.

I question an airline on which a business class ticket is hardly a hundred dollars more than economy but I bought it anyway. I question a fourteen-hour layover in Lisbon but I choose to endure it anyway.

what youth collected thoughts craig anderson surfing in indonesia

Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts gunner day nate lawrence surfing

Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts colin moran nate lawrence

Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

Have surf magazines lost their minds? First off, surf photographers have always been creepy people. Writers, not much better. But it seems in my years dealing with surf magazines that the people in charge are usually pretty turned on. They know how to make a very selfish sport look fun and inviting. I always looked…

what youth collected thoughts nate lawrence photography surfing

Too Much Perfect in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 108

Living in Bali has it’s perks. It’s cheap, warm and has waves all year round. It also has it’s downsides. Traffic, pollution and kooks. But the perfect waves always conquer the cons when contemplating if there is a better place to live. But just recently the perfect waves didn’t seem so perfect. I found myself…

what youth nate lawrence collected thoughts indonesia

Nate Lawrence nearly robbed To get you this Collected Thought Number 107 lineup shot

I nearly got robbed trying to get a lineup shot. I probably deserved it though. After all, I am exposing surf spots. And taking photos of a wave and making it look prettier than it is. The wind? It was onshore. The crowd? It was packed. But that’s the thing with us sketchy photographers, it’s…

Dillon Perillo, Indo Collected Thoughts 106: “Dillon lost his mind out here, which is kind of like finding it for him.”

On an island in remote Indonesia, Dillon Perillo can finally surf again. 5 hour sessions in the middle of the day with no one out. And then again just before sunset. This is not Malibu. —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts chippa wilson surfing bali indonesia

Chippa Wilson on the “Duo”, Bali Collected Thoughts 105

I was pretty amazed when Chippa pulled out this Neil Purchase Jr surfboard with only 2 fins and decided to ride it at pumping Uluwatu. The takeoffs were late and the drops were steep, but it didn’t hinder Chippa’s surfing. The positions in which he was riding the waves were something I hadn’t seen before.

what youth surfing indonesia bali

The Bukit Peninsula Collected Thoughts 104

The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun….

what youth julian wilson surfing bali

Julian Wilson in Bali Collected Thoughts 103

Still think spraying someone who’s paddling over the shoulder is one of the best things (and brattiest) in surfing. Julian Wilson partakes in Bali recently. —Nate Lawrence

Collected Thoughts 101 Bronson Meidy

Bronson Meidy, 12, Keramas Collected Thoughts 102

There’s a new kid to the surf scene in Bali. His name is Bronson Meidy and he just turned 12 this week. I usually don’t like to say anything about kids this young because you just want them to be kids. Eating candy and shit. Not worrying about sponsors and sticker placement. Just going surfing…

what youth surfing indonesia

The Indian Ocean Spotlight: beach parties, waves and Scandinavian women Collected Thoughts 101

The Indian Ocean is back in the spotlight. Swells are stacking up and surfers are busy paying excess baggage on flights. So what’s new? It’s still hot, dirty and full of Brazilians. There’s still corruption and crazy tourists. People are still getting crunched my motorbikes daily. But there are parties every night and Scandinavian women…

what youth chippa wilson surfing bali

Chippa Wilson, Bali 2016 Collected Thoughts 100

“Sometimes it feels so good to dig your back hand in the water and do a nice Larry layback. Chippa in Bali recently unveiling his new Brixton stickers.” —Nate Lawrence

Sign up for letters from What Youth


By enabling this page, you are acknowledging and accepting our privacy terms and conditions.