Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

At the Perillo Home Collected Thoughts 019

Dillon Perillo at home eating cereal What Youth
08.21.12 – TAGS: ,

Last Friday afternoon, peak summer, clear and sunny, 65-degree water with a south swell in it — everything right about California wrapped into a single perfect day just like the ones before and after it — I drove to Malibu, to Dillon’s house.

It was the best possible moment not to do that. Every car owner south of Portland decided idling on Highway 1 could be a real fucking gas right then and let’s all go try it, so there we were, sitting in traffic while this awesome day melted off into evening. It gave me time to look around and be reminded why California is still California and still the tits of North America, maybe all the world.

Malibu is especially nice. Dillon’s house is a sweet modern two-story on the sand at a pointbreak you don’t see from the road, or to put it another way, the fantasy of every person in greater LA who sweats here and sits on the 1 and believes it’s possible to someday have what Dillon has, which they will not.

But Dillon just wants to get out of here and go do stuff. He’s seen perfect waves, he’s lived in a beach house, he knows what a boat trip’s like. Dillon is 22. He left for Virginia the next morning and was actually excited about that and said, “I’d rather go to Virginia than Indonesia,” because Virginia might be different or interesting. He wants to go to New York because he’s never been and just walk around by himself lost in the city. He wants to go to Nashville and Seattle. We’re making plans to go do all that but fuck, I just want to hang at Dillon’s house.

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Bali Boys in Hawaii Collected Thoughts 087

“This is a photo of the Bali Boys in Hawaii almost a decade ago. They always had a good connection with the Hawaiians because in the summer all the Hawaiians would come get barreled in Indo. This photo was shot at Kahea Hart’s house where a lot of them stayed. I think most of the…

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Luke Stedman, Fa Empel, Taj Burrow and Sam Macintosh in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 086

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Go way back with Nat Young, Alana Blanchard and Kolohe Andino Collected Thoughts 085

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Pete Mel in Santa Cruz Collected Thoughts 084

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How in the hell did we surf in baggy trunks? Collected Thoughts 083

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Dane Reynolds in Santa Cruz Collected Thoughts 082

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Mark Healey and Jesse Merle Jones Collected Thoughts 081

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Gavin Beschen backside Collected Thoughts 080

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Chris Ward, Padang Collected Thoughts 079

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Tom Curren in France Collected Thoughts 078

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Dane Reynolds and Jamie O’Brien, Canada, 2006 Collected Thoughts 077

I can almost guarantee you’ll never see this happen again. Dane getting towed behind a Jet Ski with Jamie O driving. In a river. With a waterfall behind them. In Canada. I think that’s Chris Burkard shooting in the foreground, can’t remember. His angle captures a moose drinking water from the river with the northern…

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Remember Ghost Tree? Collected Thoughts 076

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