Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

On Yesterday Evan Geiselman, Billy Kemper, Andre Botha, Jaws, John John Florence, Greg Long…damn dudes.

what youth greg long jaws surfing

Yesterday was a beautiful day in California. It was calm. Sunny. The waves were 3-foot. Football was on and mama was cooking chicken all across the land. But if you were a surf fan — like an online surf-watching Instagram-hound type of surf fan — yesterday was fucking stressful and emotional.

The morning was high-octane. Greg Long channeled the adrenaline of a thousand men and packed a 200-foot (estimate) closeout on live broadcast. It was a monumental wave, moment and done by a captain of preparation and lunacy. My coffee gave me the jitters. Coupled with watching what was happening in Maui, I nearly passed out. This was all lumped on top of an impending Issue 13 deadline and, like, 4 pre-bed IPA’s. It was anything but easy like Sunday morning.

I had a surf midday and something kept me anxious — of all the places to be stressed: glassy 2-foot beachbreak wasn’t the place but I couldn’t help it. Something was off. I’m not lying that I could feel it. I hoped everything was going smooth at Peahí — which it was, aside from Billy Kemper’s Jet Ski wipeout turtle roll.(And a big congratulations to Billy for winning the event — that wasn’t a contest, that was so much more than that, and I hope you had a few too many with your family and friends. Those were incredible feats and performance by dudes who you couldn’t respect more. Hard to make it competitive when it’s life or death, literally.

So once I exited the water at my local beachbreak, I quickly saw that it was a true anxiety. Our friend and everyone’s favorite golden boy Evan Geiselman had been worked at big Pipe — nearly drowned and saved miraculously by South African bodyboard charger and now lifesaving angel Andre Botha. Gets welling up just thinking about the video. He performed CPR while swimming Evan in and dug him from the bottom by his leash while huge sets continued to pound him. Evan has since been upgraded from critical to stable condition at Queens hospital in Oahu and should make a full recovery. But we leave with another reminder to always look out for each other. Pipeline is scary and there is no other way to put it. It does not fuck around. And Evan, we’ve always known you charged, and you’ve done it again, we’re very happy you’re OK and we love you. Don’t know what else to say.

But after all the drama and excitement of the day, the night wrapped with what is supposed to be “surfing’s biggest night” or something. It’s called The Surfer Poll Awards and it happens at Turtle Bay Hotel on Oahu. Maybe you’ve heard of it. We were actually nominated for some movies but our invitations must have been lost in the mail —  but let’s just be honest: View From the Blue Moon is Star Wars and deservedly got it’s dude, taking out most honors. And if if you watched the webcast of the Poll (and I tried) the night was just exhausted. I’m sure there were some life celebrations happening at the bar, but the show was goofy. Plain and simple. By the time it came on, it just seemed like we’d run out of steam. All adrenaline and excitement and drama had already been tapped. The first few awards were given to people not in attendance. And then it was time for bed. But the recap says John John cleaned house, grabbing the number one spot from the thousand time winner Kelly Slater, movie of the year, maneuver of the year etc. But above all that, I’m mostly happy to report that everyone is alive and well and we can all surf together today. —Travis

Indonesia Boat Trip Cluster Filming Yoyo Island Creed McTaggart Brendon Gibbens Craig Anderson Thom Pringle Surfing Dear Youth What Youth

Dear Youth Field notes from the outer islands

A five-day trip to get the fuck outta Bali and film for ClusterTM with Craig Anderson, Brendon Gibbens, Creed McTaggart & Thom Pringle. We slept in dungeon style cell rooms with a shitty fan, all of us. Tucked tight together with mattresses on the floor. This was Indo at it’s best. A real surf trip….

Indonesia, mitch coleborn chippa wilson what youth

Dear Youth Noa Deane and Mitch Coleborn getting it done

This is just one of those photos that makes you want to drop everything and max out your credit card and book a boat trip with your buddies. Mitch Coleborn is paddling out and Noa Deane is about to get really barreled. What more needs to be said? It’s all happening. —Nate Lawrence

Karate Zen Dear Youth What Youth Filming Kai Neville

Dear Youth Can you hear me? Where has my zen gone?

Time’s spinning by at a wild pace. I need to reflect on what went down over the last…the last month. West oz road tripping, a boat trip, Maccas camp post up, back to back. I think we may need to just chill. I love the hustle, but… Don’t get me wrong, this shit is sick. I…

Quinn Matthews Dillon Perillo Salina Cruz Surfing What Youth Dear Youth

Dear Youth Quinn Matthews in Training

Editor’s Note: Quinn Matthews is a talented young photographer. And we like him a lot. He brought creative angles to the North Shore. And hung with the boys in West OZ. That’s step one and two of success in this game. But there are more steps which are a bit trickier to explain. Last week, Quinn…

dion Agius dane reynolds craig anderson what youth

Dear Youth Craig Anderson, Dion Agius, Dane Reynolds in New Zealand, filming for Dear Suburbia, 2012

Editor’s Note: Blake Myers is Kai Neville and What Youth’s mascot/employee/filmmaker/creative Kiwi. He’s been making Lego videos and films for years now, and he’s also pretty good at snapping interesting photos along the way. The moments that usually go unoticed — which we thrive on. He’ll be contributing to Photo Credit and unearthing his archive…

Kai Neville Creed McTaggart Noa Deane Dear Youth What Youth Music

Dear Youth Click happy

“Popular is not the same as important, or often, not the same as good.” — Seth Godin Yesterday, sitting in the boiling cauldron that is Los Angeles traffic, I tuned the radio dial to 88.9, which is KXLU, a tiny independent radio station broadcasting from the campus at Loyola Marymount. It’s not world famous and…

Chippa Wilson getting barreled for cluster what youth

Dear Youth Chippa Wilson, Indonesia, Last week

Nate Lawrence: “Chippa Wilson is more known for his airs than his barrel riding skills, but damn can he ride the barrel well. We just finished a good ol’ fashioned Mentawai boat trip and it did not disappoint. There’s something about bobbing on a boat for 12 days with your friends that will never get…

Noa Deane Surfing Cluster What Youth Dear Youth

Dear Youth Noa Deane’s washed up traveler kit

A lot of people like to snap photos of their ultra-curated travel kits: vintage camera, neat bag, perfectly-folded shirt, passport, funny hat, postcards, Moleskin, etc. You know the shot. Well, over the past few years the travel kits we’ve seen don’t exactly look like that. They’re more like this. So here’s the first in a…

Noa Deana Indonesia Cluster Kai Neville Surfing Dear Youth What Youth

Dear Youth Noa Deane’s Indo stitch up

The ramps were good and the crowd was super mellow with the stiff breeze. 30 minutes into the surf Noa boned a pretty big Stalefish. Off target, his fin caught his arm and left him with a nice open gash. He bellied in and I started wondering why the hell he was coming in —…

mitch coleborn jack freestone noa deane what youth cluster

Dear Youth Nate on the Run

Editor’s note: Nate Lawrence is a good employee. Fills our hard drives with photographic gold all year long and is just one of the best dudes you’ll find. However, occasionally, he disappears. Doesn’t usually take us long to see that it often coincides with an active Indian Ocean, which just so happens to be firing…

Craig anderson surfing what youth

Dear Youth Boy to Man: Quinn Mathews returns from Western Australia

Photographer Quinn Matthews just walked in the door here at What Youth. Quinn is 18. Super talented. And up until now hadn’t been on too many surf trips. He was a green grom and we sent him into the wild. He went to Western Australia for 8 weeks to take photos and prove his worth…

Jordy smith what youth

Dear Youth Jordy Smith’s Indonesian Salon

Jordy Smith and Rob Bain, Indonesia 2013 “This here is a photo of Jordy just starting to dive into a fresh haircut for his boss, Rob Bain. It was the last night of the trip and Jordy had a line of people ready to get haircuts. What Youth photographer Hamish Humphreys had just got his…

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