Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

On Yesterday Evan Geiselman, Billy Kemper, Andre Botha, Jaws, John John Florence, Greg Long…damn dudes.

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Yesterday was a beautiful day in California. It was calm. Sunny. The waves were 3-foot. Football was on and mama was cooking chicken all across the land. But if you were a surf fan — like an online surf-watching Instagram-hound type of surf fan — yesterday was fucking stressful and emotional.

The morning was high-octane. Greg Long channeled the adrenaline of a thousand men and packed a 200-foot (estimate) closeout on live broadcast. It was a monumental wave, moment and done by a captain of preparation and lunacy. My coffee gave me the jitters. Coupled with watching what was happening in Maui, I nearly passed out. This was all lumped on top of an impending Issue 13 deadline and, like, 4 pre-bed IPA’s. It was anything but easy like Sunday morning.

I had a surf midday and something kept me anxious — of all the places to be stressed: glassy 2-foot beachbreak wasn’t the place but I couldn’t help it. Something was off. I’m not lying that I could feel it. I hoped everything was going smooth at Peahí — which it was, aside from Billy Kemper’s Jet Ski wipeout turtle roll.(And a big congratulations to Billy for winning the event — that wasn’t a contest, that was so much more than that, and I hope you had a few too many with your family and friends. Those were incredible feats and performance by dudes who you couldn’t respect more. Hard to make it competitive when it’s life or death, literally.

So once I exited the water at my local beachbreak, I quickly saw that it was a true anxiety. Our friend and everyone’s favorite golden boy Evan Geiselman had been worked at big Pipe — nearly drowned and saved miraculously by South African bodyboard charger and now lifesaving angel Andre Botha. Gets welling up just thinking about the video. He performed CPR while swimming Evan in and dug him from the bottom by his leash while huge sets continued to pound him. Evan has since been upgraded from critical to stable condition at Queens hospital in Oahu and should make a full recovery. But we leave with another reminder to always look out for each other. Pipeline is scary and there is no other way to put it. It does not fuck around. And Evan, we’ve always known you charged, and you’ve done it again, we’re very happy you’re OK and we love you. Don’t know what else to say.

But after all the drama and excitement of the day, the night wrapped with what is supposed to be “surfing’s biggest night” or something. It’s called The Surfer Poll Awards and it happens at Turtle Bay Hotel on Oahu. Maybe you’ve heard of it. We were actually nominated for some movies but our invitations must have been lost in the mail —  but let’s just be honest: View From the Blue Moon is Star Wars and deservedly got it’s dude, taking out most honors. And if if you watched the webcast of the Poll (and I tried) the night was just exhausted. I’m sure there were some life celebrations happening at the bar, but the show was goofy. Plain and simple. By the time it came on, it just seemed like we’d run out of steam. All adrenaline and excitement and drama had already been tapped. The first few awards were given to people not in attendance. And then it was time for bed. But the recap says John John cleaned house, grabbing the number one spot from the thousand time winner Kelly Slater, movie of the year, maneuver of the year etc. But above all that, I’m mostly happy to report that everyone is alive and well and we can all surf together today. —Travis

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Kelly Slater Announces Outerknown And everyone (except us) freaks out because it’s expensive

I love Kelly Slater. Always have. For all the infinite reasons there are to love him: he’s a great rep for surfing, great surfer, great looking, great, great great. He’s a little conservative (maybe) at times — but not really. He’s open-minded, and that’s all I ask. And let’s keep in mind the dude’s 43 —…

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Live from a little bit of everywhere Spain, Oregon, Bali, SF, Vancouver and maybe more. We’re coming.

I still haven’t found a way to ask for “more red wine” on an airplane without sounding like a mumbling, lunatic alcoholic. The sounds, the letters, the tight quarters and awkward seating arrangements on board. Just can’t get it. But somehow, they decipher my gibberish and continue to fill my glass. We’re currently a little all…

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Jack London Calling Surfing, Books and Drinking for your long weekend in the sun

Jack London is a writer — rather famous one too. He wrote The Call of the Wild, The Sea-Wolf, Iron Heel, White Fang and tons of other famous novels in the early 1900’s that you may have been told to read and probably didn’t. Turns out London wrote about surfing too. In 1907 he was…

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Misguided Men with a Journal The defining “SurfCore” article came out. And it sucks.

Before we get too deep, let’s remember anyone using Men’s Journal as a resource for fashion advice, or anything outside of Creatine dosage, probably doesn’t skate our ramp. But, they spoke about surfing. And style. And fashion. So we must acknowledge. (And talk shit.) So let’s begin. Here’s a sentence in the article, next to a…

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Craig Anderson at Desert Point Full Gallery Photographed by Nate Lawrence

Editor’s Note: When Nate Lawrence calls and says he’s going to Desert Point with Craig Anderson, I mostly assume that Nate means he will be surfing alongside Craig, because Nate fucking loves surfing Desert Point and he more or less hates shooting Desert Point. But on this trip, he did a bit of both. And…

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Dane Reynolds is World Champ Why Sampler is so much more than a heat win

Why Sampler is so much more than a heat win

“It’s a weird feeling” Brendon Gibbens on being in Cluster

I was en-route back to South Africa from WA when Kai invited me to Europe for the Cluster tour. Without hesitation, I accepted the invitation, spent 10 hours in SA and then flew directly to Spain to meet up with Kai, minus the board bag. It’s a weird feeling to be in a Kai film….

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Humming ((Sounder)) C.S. Louis and the economics of a hangover purchase

Last night I was JD Rockefeller but the Latino version. Endowing the arts, buying kalimotxos, schmoozing Argentine musicians, spinning women and hailing cabs on a winterlike eve. Today I have $9.99. And perhaps more pertinently limited bandwidth, limited patience, fits of anxiety and tremoring hands. I tried to shred it off in two foot onshore slop but…

Friendly advice from a tax man Is this the end of experience?

Information overload

“It’s still not on!” The WSL learning surfing is still a shit show

While I’m quite certain Samsung Galaxy’s products are not for anyone, the WSL and Samsung may be learning the hard way that surfing is definitely not for everyone. A 9th 10th straight lay day has forced the WSL to extend the waiting period for the Quiksilver Pro until Friday the 13th, in turn costing them a…

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On “Fucking the WSL” We never intended to get them so laid

I’ve got a bone to pick. And it aint with the ASP, WSL, PGA, NFL or any other softball leagues. At least not today. It’s with anyone who’s so sensitive that when Noa Deane (or anyone) “popped the inevitable zit” and publicly de-flowered the WSL that it was deemed so offensive to “surf culture” that he had…

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We saw Meatbodies at Thalia’s Wax Ball A sick monthly rock show in Laguna Beach

Keeping Laguna Weird with Thalia Surf Shop

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