Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

There was a fight on a surf podcast Collected Thoughts 134: Nate Lawrence on the near violence on Surf Splendor

what youth ryan burch punching a rock by nate lawrence

It’s 5 a.m. and I’m sitting on the couch at WY’s Scott Chenoweth’s house in Long Beach — wide awake because I just heard a car getting broke into right outside. I can’t sleep so I end up in the vortex of my phone and find myself hitting a link to a podcast featuring Beach Grit’s Chas Smith where he allegedly attempts to strangle someone. I’m interested in the strangling story so I waste an hour of my life listening to the back and forth argument about “surf journalism.” I am not going to recommend listening to the podcast (because you can’t actually see Chas strangle anyone) but it did make me think about some of the issues. Let’s discuss.

Listen to the podcast here (if that’s your thing):

Takeaways:

1.) There is no such thing as surf journalism. The creative writing is cool to read, but don’t call it journalism.

2.) Everyone is so wrapped up in their own passions that they think theirs is bigger than it really is. I’m a photographer, so I always looked up to certain surf photographers growing up and thought they were the best thing ever. Fast forward a few years and you realize they are actually a lot of losers who don’t have a job now or a different skill set to apply to anything other than pointing their camera at surfers jumping in the water. Same goes for surf writers. They idolize people who, unless you are an aspiring surf writer, no one even knows of. And Chas points this out repeatedly saying: if you want to be a surf writer find another job and do writing on the side because you’ll never become a great writer working at Stab. And the other guy just can’t understand that. I’d say the same thing for any kid who wants to become a surf photographer.

3.) The other guy says, “We hire filmmakers to make art.”  That was funny, I laughed a lot.

4.) What really interests me is the fact that people continue to try to pursue a career in surf media that has such little to offer them in return. A story online for a few hundred dollars. A photo in a magazine for $150. A position as the editor for the prospect of becoming the marketing manager at Sector 9 next year.

5.) Podcasts are frustrating when there’s a fight and you can’t see it happen. Oh, and Chas should have really punched that other guy for talking about his wife and kid like that. I know I would have.—Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts craig anderson surfing in indonesia

Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

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Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts colin moran nate lawrence

Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

Have surf magazines lost their minds? First off, surf photographers have always been creepy people. Writers, not much better. But it seems in my years dealing with surf magazines that the people in charge are usually pretty turned on. They know how to make a very selfish sport look fun and inviting. I always looked…

what youth collected thoughts nate lawrence photography surfing

Too Much Perfect in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 108

Living in Bali has it’s perks. It’s cheap, warm and has waves all year round. It also has it’s downsides. Traffic, pollution and kooks. But the perfect waves always conquer the cons when contemplating if there is a better place to live. But just recently the perfect waves didn’t seem so perfect. I found myself…

what youth nate lawrence collected thoughts indonesia

Nate Lawrence nearly robbed To get you this Collected Thought Number 107 lineup shot

I nearly got robbed trying to get a lineup shot. I probably deserved it though. After all, I am exposing surf spots. And taking photos of a wave and making it look prettier than it is. The wind? It was onshore. The crowd? It was packed. But that’s the thing with us sketchy photographers, it’s…

Dillon Perillo, Indo Collected Thoughts 106: “Dillon lost his mind out here, which is kind of like finding it for him.”

On an island in remote Indonesia, Dillon Perillo can finally surf again. 5 hour sessions in the middle of the day with no one out. And then again just before sunset. This is not Malibu. —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts chippa wilson surfing bali indonesia

Chippa Wilson on the “Duo”, Bali Collected Thoughts 105

I was pretty amazed when Chippa pulled out this Neil Purchase Jr surfboard with only 2 fins and decided to ride it at pumping Uluwatu. The takeoffs were late and the drops were steep, but it didn’t hinder Chippa’s surfing. The positions in which he was riding the waves were something I hadn’t seen before.

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The Bukit Peninsula Collected Thoughts 104

The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun….

what youth julian wilson surfing bali

Julian Wilson in Bali Collected Thoughts 103

Still think spraying someone who’s paddling over the shoulder is one of the best things (and brattiest) in surfing. Julian Wilson partakes in Bali recently. —Nate Lawrence

Collected Thoughts 101 Bronson Meidy

Bronson Meidy, 12, Keramas Collected Thoughts 102

There’s a new kid to the surf scene in Bali. His name is Bronson Meidy and he just turned 12 this week. I usually don’t like to say anything about kids this young because you just want them to be kids. Eating candy and shit. Not worrying about sponsors and sticker placement. Just going surfing…

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The Indian Ocean Spotlight: beach parties, waves and Scandinavian women Collected Thoughts 101

The Indian Ocean is back in the spotlight. Swells are stacking up and surfers are busy paying excess baggage on flights. So what’s new? It’s still hot, dirty and full of Brazilians. There’s still corruption and crazy tourists. People are still getting crunched my motorbikes daily. But there are parties every night and Scandinavian women…

what youth chippa wilson surfing bali

Chippa Wilson, Bali 2016 Collected Thoughts 100

“Sometimes it feels so good to dig your back hand in the water and do a nice Larry layback. Chippa in Bali recently unveiling his new Brixton stickers.” —Nate Lawrence

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