Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

There was a fight on a surf podcast Collected Thoughts 134: Nate Lawrence on the near violence on Surf Splendor

what youth ryan burch punching a rock by nate lawrence

It’s 5 a.m. and I’m sitting on the couch at WY’s Scott Chenoweth’s house in Long Beach — wide awake because I just heard a car getting broke into right outside. I can’t sleep so I end up in the vortex of my phone and find myself hitting a link to a podcast featuring Beach Grit’s Chas Smith where he allegedly attempts to strangle someone. I’m interested in the strangling story so I waste an hour of my life listening to the back and forth argument about “surf journalism.” I am not going to recommend listening to the podcast (because you can’t actually see Chas strangle anyone) but it did make me think about some of the issues. Let’s discuss.

Listen to the podcast here (if that’s your thing):

Takeaways:

1.) There is no such thing as surf journalism. The creative writing is cool to read, but don’t call it journalism.

2.) Everyone is so wrapped up in their own passions that they think theirs is bigger than it really is. I’m a photographer, so I always looked up to certain surf photographers growing up and thought they were the best thing ever. Fast forward a few years and you realize they are actually a lot of losers who don’t have a job now or a different skill set to apply to anything other than pointing their camera at surfers jumping in the water. Same goes for surf writers. They idolize people who, unless you are an aspiring surf writer, no one even knows of. And Chas points this out repeatedly saying: if you want to be a surf writer find another job and do writing on the side because you’ll never become a great writer working at Stab. And the other guy just can’t understand that. I’d say the same thing for any kid who wants to become a surf photographer.

3.) The other guy says, “We hire filmmakers to make art.”  That was funny, I laughed a lot.

4.) What really interests me is the fact that people continue to try to pursue a career in surf media that has such little to offer them in return. A story online for a few hundred dollars. A photo in a magazine for $150. A position as the editor for the prospect of becoming the marketing manager at Sector 9 next year.

5.) Podcasts are frustrating when there’s a fight and you can’t see it happen. Oh, and Chas should have really punched that other guy for talking about his wife and kid like that. I know I would have.—Nate Lawrence

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Nate’s Back where the water is warm Collected Thoughts 123: After a stint in CA, Nate’s back in the tropics

“Man, it’s nice being back in the tropics…” —Nate Lawrence

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Yago Dora, Indonesia, 2016 Collected Thoughts 122

“There was a time in my life that I could do nothing except think about Macaroni’s. Like every day I would think – how am I going to get there. I think Yago thought the same thing on our trip. He was on another boat trip and was supposed to hop straight onto ours. It…

what youth collected thouthgs Kolohe Andino photographed by Nate Lawrence

Kolohe Andino, Bali 2013 Collected Thoughts 121

“Nobody’s perfect, and we love that.” —Nate Lawrence

what youth dion agius photographed by nate lawrence

Dion Agius, Hossegor, 2015 Collected Thoughts 120

“I first saw Dion on the cover of Transworld Surf magazine. It was a D.Hump flash photo that popped Dion onto the map in America. He was young. He was Australian. That was pretty much all I knew about him. Fast forward 12 years and still, a lot of people don’t know much about Dion….

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Collected Thoughts 119 Nate Lawrence mind surfing Indonesia

“I always look at photos of Greenbush, and wonder why the guy isn’t taking off behind the peak…” —Nate Lawrence

what youth collected thoughts stretch surfboards nate lawrence

Collected Thoughts 118 Stretch Surfboards shaping room, 2013

“I’ve always had a fascination with surfboard shapers. Mainly because they are really weird and mostly crazy. And I like crazy. Growing up in Santa Cruz and visiting a few of the local shapers, I started to see some similarities. Empty cans of Coors Light. Photos on the walls of mostly naked women and day-of-the-decade…

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Mason Ho doesn’t have bad surfs Collected Thoughts 117 with Nate Lawrence

“Does Mason ever have a bad surf? Nope.” —Nate Lawrence

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Dane Reynolds, Honest in Chapter 11 Collected Thoughts 116

“If you haven’t already watched Dane’s new film, Chapter 11, go watch it now. It is one of the most honest pieces on surfing that I have ever seen. As a huge fan of Dane Reynolds, I have liked almost everything he has ever been involved in. First Chapter. Young Guns. His section in Campaign…

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When Obama got Elected Collected Thoughts 115: Nate Lawrence’s view from abroad

I was in Senegal, West Africa when Obama got inaugurated for the first time. There was a sense of excitement and joy wherever I traveled for that next year. As an expat living overseas I had been saying I was Canadian when people asked. It was the safe thing to do, especially in Muslim countries…

Frame Grabs aren’t taking over. Yet. Collected Thoughts 114: Nate Lawrence on the new Canon 1DX Mark II

I recently saw a photo from a Canon event where editors from Surfing Magazine were giving a talk. A big pull quote was streaming from a projector saying, “THE DIGITAL CAMERA WAS JUST A TEMPORARY BRIDGE FROM FILM TO FRAME GRABS” —Peter Taras There’s been a bit of talk recently about Canon’s new 1DX Mark…

what youth gunner day photography by timmy Ridenour

Gunner Day Driving Through Indo Collected Thoughts 113: What makes this kid any different?

So you’re 16 and an up-and-coming professional surfer from San Clemente…so what? There are a lot of those. Like a lot.  T Street looks like an Olympic training ground of fluorescent wetsuits these days.  So what are you suppose to do to stand out in the surf world? Is it the QS grind three to the beach and a…

what youth collected thoughts luke hynd

Luke Hynd at The Bush Collected Thoughts 112: Timmy Ridenour talks about shooting Greenbush from the water

I would like to tell you about me being scared. And the dangers of swimming 8- to 10-foot Green Bush at close proximity to the reef with a very large camera. I assure you it’s a scary place at any breakable size and I was scared. But in the split second this photo was taken…

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