We didn’t have a fridge or ice so the beer was always warm. Drank Lucky beer.
This was — and still probably is — the most wetsuit Jamie ever worn..
This wave broke for about an hour. It was the only actual surf we had in 10 days.
Did this for about 10 days.
We tried to make an eagle swoop down to eat this. And it did.
Jamie had to have trunks on at all times.
