Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Dear Youth Right Place, Right Time.

nate zoller what youth dear youth fiji

Editor’s Note: There are certain guys out there who just know how to get good waves. Good, uncrowded waves. Both locally and on the road. It takes a little more effort and a lot of time searching. And Nate Zoller is that guy. He comes through the What Youth HQ periodically and raves about the perfect waves he got. Sometimes it’ some weird spot in Orange County. Sometimes it’s Newport. Sometimes it’s Nepal. Or Fiji, as it was this time below. His life seems to revolve around being in the right place, at the right time. And for those of you interested in a life full of better waves, listen this man. He may not spell it out completely, but study his lifestyle. The devil and some really good waves are in these details. Keep an eye out for his recurring column. —Travis 

I just had the best month of my life.

I boarded a plane for Fiji the day before Halloween and took the first breath of November upon landing. I made my way on bus and boat to the island of Tavarua. We unloaded on the opposite side of Restaurants because the normal channel was too rough. Up the path I saw artist Kevin Ancell peaking through the flora. In the restaurant was everyone from Bob Hurley to someone who looks like G Love. It was G Love. Seconds later Sal Masekela walks up, eyes rolled back, glistening. “I’ve known Kelly for twenty years and that was the craziest barrel I’ve ever seen the guy get. Hands down.” I was dazed by how fucking good Restaurants was at that moment. Like Damo-Hobgood-Globe-Fiji-Pro good.

I took a deep breath, ripped a board out of the coffin, caught a boat out to the lineup, and took two coral facing free falls. Both were non-make pin drops. I paddled back out humbled.

Don’t look Slater in the eye, don’t look Slater in the eye. Fuck, I just looked him in the eye. I have to say something.

“Hey, I’m the new volunteer lifeguard on the island.”

“You are? Have you surfed here before?”

“First time.”

“Here, let me show you the takeoff spot.”

First hour in Tavarua and Slater shows me his takeoff spot at Restaurants. Like I’d use it. Any farther up the point and we’d be on dry land.

The next day its Cloudbreak. Proper, off the ledge shit. Taylor Steele shows up that evening with a “fly-by-night” Australian film crew. A day later and the swell is up again. Slater breaks his foot using a giant chest mount pole cam 360 tube angle thing and crutches his way to the heli pad on the fourth. What’a guy!

For the next two weeks I am up before the sun and on every available skiff. I am cleaning boats and diving for anchors, doing whatever it takes to make it out to Cloudbreak on a low tide.

I make friends with the local boatmen legends and the sweet Fijian ladies at the restaurant. Good vibes are everywhere on the heart shaped island in the Pacific. Tavarua is still the most classic surf experience possible. It’s life derived by surf, the way it should be.

Goodbyes are tough but I say them after just two weeks. Because my flight to Kathmandu leaves tomorrow out of LAX. And I’m not gonna miss that. To be Continued. Forever. —Nate Zoller

Evan Geiselman in France photographed by Quinn Matthews What Youth

Dear Youth I thought Evan Geiselman was a ghost

This morning I was sitting here editing pages for What Youth Issue 9 (deadlines and shit) when photo rookie Quinn Matthews quit chasing French girls long enough to send us a batch of images from France. I flicked through and who should I see but Evan Geiselman! I immediately picked up the phone and dialed…

Craig Anderson photographed by Nate Lawrence What Youth

Dear Youth Guy in the sky

Where is the wave? I’ve cut off the bottom of the wave! “Guy in the sky” is what I was told not to do when I was younger. “Always have the wave in the photo.” “Show where he came from and where he’s going.” Blah. Blah. Blah. A long time ago I decided not to…

Kai Neville in Italy

Dear Youth Scenes from Europe with Kai

Overcast and gloom as we hit the tarmac. It feels good to be out of Indonesia. The contrast is evident immediately. I feel young here. War torn, art coated, romance-stained Europe. From Hemingway to Jean Luc, find your feet, sink your teeth and hack away. I could make a film here. Anywhere but LA, fuck,…

Mitch Coleborn photographed by Kai Neville Cluster Movie Surfboards Quiver

Dear Youth Mitch Coleborn’s Cluster Quiver

Surfboard art can be really bad. And good of course, but most often, bad. Depending who it’s in the hands of. From classic iconic pin lines, solid colors, pro and shaper decals, over-done murals…there hasn’t been too many iconic art works under foam and fiberglass. The lightning bolt, Ozzies crowns, Kalani’s Kellog boards, Todd Chesser’s…

Noa Deane in Indonesia Filming For Cluster by Kai Neville

Dear Youth Noa Deane Filming for Cluster

Noa Deane’s dad is one of the finest competitive surfers Australia has ever known. Wayne Deane’s list of accolades is lengthy, he owns a successful surfboard business and he was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in 2003. But despite his incredible competitive success, he never forced that onto his son, and we’d…

Dane Reynolds surfing in indonesia on the set of cluster

Dear Youth Strange Desires: Dane Reynolds from the set of Cluster

I feel like I’m coming down with something. Last time I was here I projectile vomited across the room. A powerful spew that didn’t quite make the bowl. Now there are cats crawling around my gado gado. Sweats aside, the waves are good. Plenty of swell and Dane Reynolds is jamming alongside Jay Davies. Back…

Jack Freestone Crack Salina Cruz Mexico Surfing Quinn Matthews Photography Dear Youth What Youth

Dear Youth Crack, A What Youth original short will premiere Friday, August 15

We asked Dillon Perillo, who traveled to Mexico with Jack Freestone, about the trip that will be playing here on Friday. Seems that it was hot: Dillon Perillo on Mexico: “The air was a scorch and our rations were peanut butter and jelly sandwiches with these funny cherry and marshmallow cookies. The beer is almost…

Rizal Tanjung bali what youth

Dear Youth Rizal Tanjung and his son Varun paddling out at Padang

Nate Lawrence: “There’s so much talk of the next generation. Kids are getting sponsored at a younger age every year. They are learning faster than previous generations. Surfing is changing into something that is very thought out and calculated. No more do kids grab any surfboard and paddle out not knowing how many cubic liters…

Bol Adi Putra surfing in bali what youth

Dear Youth Bol Adi Putra, Padang Padang

Bol Adi Putra at Padang Padang There’s no lack of swell in Indo right now. Hasn’t been for months. Wherever you are over here, you’ve been scoring. Mentawais. G-Land. Bali. It’s all been nonstop. But what you haven’t scored is Bali’s most famous wave: Padang Padang. Sure you’ve gotten a few head dips here and…

Magazine deadline Dear youth What Youth

Dear Youth Late nights, early mornings

Slept here last night…well, Scott did, if you call that sleep. And he looks good today! We just battled each demonic hurdle this latest deadline threw at us. Wielding swords of wine bottles and coffee, we are officially finished. We can throw away (and hide) all the Del Taco bags, beer cans, coffee cups and…

Luke Davis Indonesia Boat Trip Nate Lawrence Dear Youth Surfing What Youth

Dear Youth This is what it looks like to score

Taj Burrow claimed best trip to Indo…like ever. Luke Davis (pictured above) parked himself in hundreds of long-term tubes stations (often on his 5′ 5″ x 19 1/4″ Mayhem) and thoroughly proved himself a stubborn barrel pig. Kolohe Andino stood tall and strong — sporting 15 stitches in his chin — while driving through roping…

Taj Burrow Mentawais Dear Youth What Youth Music

Dear Youth Taj Burrow hammering the pedals in the Mentawais

Kolohe Andino has been looking up to Taj Burrow since he was around 7 years old. Taj was his guy as a grom. And seeings how we’re officially calling Taj Burrow The World’s Greatest Professional Surfer of All-Time, it was only fitting that when the opportunity for Kolohe to do a trip to Indo with…

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