Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

Dear Youth Right Place, Right Time.

nate zoller what youth dear youth fiji

Editor’s Note: There are certain guys out there who just know how to get good waves. Good, uncrowded waves. Both locally and on the road. It takes a little more effort and a lot of time searching. And Nate Zoller is that guy. He comes through the What Youth HQ periodically and raves about the perfect waves he got. Sometimes it’ some weird spot in Orange County. Sometimes it’s Newport. Sometimes it’s Nepal. Or Fiji, as it was this time below. His life seems to revolve around being in the right place, at the right time. And for those of you interested in a life full of better waves, listen this man. He may not spell it out completely, but study his lifestyle. The devil and some really good waves are in these details. Keep an eye out for his recurring column. —Travis 

I just had the best month of my life.

I boarded a plane for Fiji the day before Halloween and took the first breath of November upon landing. I made my way on bus and boat to the island of Tavarua. We unloaded on the opposite side of Restaurants because the normal channel was too rough. Up the path I saw artist Kevin Ancell peaking through the flora. In the restaurant was everyone from Bob Hurley to someone who looks like G Love. It was G Love. Seconds later Sal Masekela walks up, eyes rolled back, glistening. “I’ve known Kelly for twenty years and that was the craziest barrel I’ve ever seen the guy get. Hands down.” I was dazed by how fucking good Restaurants was at that moment. Like Damo-Hobgood-Globe-Fiji-Pro good.

I took a deep breath, ripped a board out of the coffin, caught a boat out to the lineup, and took two coral facing free falls. Both were non-make pin drops. I paddled back out humbled.

Don’t look Slater in the eye, don’t look Slater in the eye. Fuck, I just looked him in the eye. I have to say something.

“Hey, I’m the new volunteer lifeguard on the island.”

“You are? Have you surfed here before?”

“First time.”

“Here, let me show you the takeoff spot.”

First hour in Tavarua and Slater shows me his takeoff spot at Restaurants. Like I’d use it. Any farther up the point and we’d be on dry land.

The next day its Cloudbreak. Proper, off the ledge shit. Taylor Steele shows up that evening with a “fly-by-night” Australian film crew. A day later and the swell is up again. Slater breaks his foot using a giant chest mount pole cam 360 tube angle thing and crutches his way to the heli pad on the fourth. What’a guy!

For the next two weeks I am up before the sun and on every available skiff. I am cleaning boats and diving for anchors, doing whatever it takes to make it out to Cloudbreak on a low tide.

I make friends with the local boatmen legends and the sweet Fijian ladies at the restaurant. Good vibes are everywhere on the heart shaped island in the Pacific. Tavarua is still the most classic surf experience possible. It’s life derived by surf, the way it should be.

Goodbyes are tough but I say them after just two weeks. Because my flight to Kathmandu leaves tomorrow out of LAX. And I’m not gonna miss that. To be Continued. Forever. —Nate Zoller

creed mctaggart surfing what youth cluster

The What Youth Caption Contest Photo captions are dead. Let’s reinvent them.

Photo captions suck because they’re easy to write instead of great to read.

what youth recommends

Miki Dora on Surf Competitions Sage advice from “Da Cat”

Editor’s Note: Just a little magic for your day. Miki Dora, from Surfers: The Movie: “The competitive part of it all is a whole different ball game, a whole different camp. What I’m involved with, I don’t even think about it. I don’t wanna think about. It destroys for me the whole purpose of riding waves….

what youth yago dora surfing

This is Yago Dora We couldn’t love him more, and you will too

We met Yago Dora on this trip. The ever-smiling “Yogs.” Without much formality, we Instagram-directed him an invitation to come on the trip because we love his surfing and we’d heard he’s just a great dude to be around (he is). He changed a few plans and tickets and just like that he was in….

Gallery California Quinn Matthews first submission from a swell happy coastline

Editor’s Note: California is a magical place. Especially if you’re a photographer…right? Well it’s trickier than you think. Even with trains of NW swell stacking up in the Pacific. To get gold it takes a lot of homework and a good amount of luck to get the classic imagery you’re after — or maybe you should…

what youth this is us north surfing trip

North in a big white van Yago Dora, Brendon Gibbens, Andrew Doheny and Dillon Perillo road trip to SF in This is Us: North

It was Wednesday morning when we picked up the big white van in Orange County. Planes took off from the nearby airport and the hustle of 8 a.m. was well underway. Donuts and smoothies were being consumed. People driving with eyes glued to their phones as we ticked the box on the rental agreement for…

what youth adriano world champ

Why this is so great Sending our love to Adriano de Souza’s WSL World Title

Yesterday I watched one of my favorite surfers (Mason Ho) surf against Adriano de Souza in a heat that would decide the WSL World Title — and I found myself rooting for Adriano. I posted my feelings about it on Instagram at one point and was immediately berated for the opinion, which is fine, but…

what youth beau foster surfing

Once the Testosterone Settles A little behind-the-scenes glimpse at Beau Foster’s new movie Shitkicker to ease the tension

There is a lot of testosterone in the air right now. People are SHOUTING. Good and bad. Tears are flowing and emotions are really raging. So let’s take a deep breath and remember how fun surfing is. Which is what Beau Foster’s new film “Shitkicker” is. And yes, we are very proud of Adriano DeSouza…

what youth issue 13 julain wilson

Deadline Done Issue 13 is currently being covered in ink for you

Every deadline has a personality. Traits that distinguish it from the last one faced, and this issue was no different. A temptress of the late night, our next book is lubricated with midnight oil, covered in many moon’s light, but in our experience, that’s where the good shit comes from. After a few weeks on…

what youth greg long jaws surfing

On Yesterday Evan Geiselman, Billy Kemper, Andre Botha, Jaws, John John Florence, Greg Long…damn dudes.

Yesterday was a beautiful day in California. It was calm. Sunny. The waves were 3-foot. Football was on and mama was cooking chicken all across the land. But if you were a surf fan — like an online surf-watching Instagram-hound type of surf fan — yesterday was fucking stressful and emotional. The morning was high-octane. Greg Long…

what youth magazine bruce irons

Do Surf Magazines still matter? Our own Nate Lawrence on then and now

Do surf magazines still matter? I’ve been asking myself this question for the last few months. It’s probably my growing older and wondering if kids these days think the same as I did. When I first had a dream to get a photo published, magazines were everything. Everything I would work for and spend money and…

We Are All Bruce Irons Our case for the feel good hit of the winter

[UPDATE: November 23, 2015]: Kieren Perrow and the WSL have officially awarded Bruce Irons the Wildcard for The Billabong Pipeline Masters. Bruce had this to say: “I’m so honored to be given the opportunity to compete in the Pipe Masters in memory of my brother,” Irons said. “I reached out to Kieren (Perrow) a couple of…

Spilling Condiments on your shirt Unfiltered moments from the road with Droid

This is a little bit ridiculous, but I’m writing from a log on the beach surrounded by sand dollars while tethered to Internet from my futuristic iPhone. I’m watching Andrew Doheny, Dillon Perillo and Yago Dora rip a reform somewhere near the center of California. It aint perfect but it’s pretty damn fun and the…

Sign up for letters from What Youth


By enabling this page, you are acknowledging and accepting our privacy terms and conditions.