I have nothing to report.
I sit behind a computer all day and get drinks with girls at night.
Occasionally, I draw
missing the water.
Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.
I have nothing to report.
I sit behind a computer all day and get drinks with girls at night.
Occasionally, I draw
missing the water.
This morning I was sitting here editing pages for What Youth Issue 9 (deadlines and shit) when photo rookie Quinn Matthews quit chasing French girls long enough to send us a batch of images from France. I flicked through and who should I see but Evan Geiselman! I immediately picked up the phone and dialed…
Where is the wave? I’ve cut off the bottom of the wave! “Guy in the sky” is what I was told not to do when I was younger. “Always have the wave in the photo.” “Show where he came from and where he’s going.” Blah. Blah. Blah. A long time ago I decided not to…
Overcast and gloom as we hit the tarmac. It feels good to be out of Indonesia. The contrast is evident immediately. I feel young here. War torn, art coated, romance-stained Europe. From Hemingway to Jean Luc, find your feet, sink your teeth and hack away. I could make a film here. Anywhere but LA, fuck,…
Surfboard art can be really bad. And good of course, but most often, bad. Depending who it’s in the hands of. From classic iconic pin lines, solid colors, pro and shaper decals, over-done murals…there hasn’t been too many iconic art works under foam and fiberglass. The lightning bolt, Ozzies crowns, Kalani’s Kellog boards, Todd Chesser’s…
Noa Deane’s dad is one of the finest competitive surfers Australia has ever known. Wayne Deane’s list of accolades is lengthy, he owns a successful surfboard business and he was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in 2003. But despite his incredible competitive success, he never forced that onto his son, and we’d…
I feel like I’m coming down with something. Last time I was here I projectile vomited across the room. A powerful spew that didn’t quite make the bowl. Now there are cats crawling around my gado gado. Sweats aside, the waves are good. Plenty of swell and Dane Reynolds is jamming alongside Jay Davies. Back…
We asked Dillon Perillo, who traveled to Mexico with Jack Freestone, about the trip that will be playing here on Friday. Seems that it was hot: Dillon Perillo on Mexico: “The air was a scorch and our rations were peanut butter and jelly sandwiches with these funny cherry and marshmallow cookies. The beer is almost…
Nate Lawrence: “There’s so much talk of the next generation. Kids are getting sponsored at a younger age every year. They are learning faster than previous generations. Surfing is changing into something that is very thought out and calculated. No more do kids grab any surfboard and paddle out not knowing how many cubic liters…
Bol Adi Putra at Padang Padang There’s no lack of swell in Indo right now. Hasn’t been for months. Wherever you are over here, you’ve been scoring. Mentawais. G-Land. Bali. It’s all been nonstop. But what you haven’t scored is Bali’s most famous wave: Padang Padang. Sure you’ve gotten a few head dips here and…
Slept here last night…well, Scott did, if you call that sleep. And he looks good today! We just battled each demonic hurdle this latest deadline threw at us. Wielding swords of wine bottles and coffee, we are officially finished. We can throw away (and hide) all the Del Taco bags, beer cans, coffee cups and…
Taj Burrow claimed best trip to Indo…like ever. Luke Davis (pictured above) parked himself in hundreds of long-term tubes stations (often on his 5′ 5″ x 19 1/4″ Mayhem) and thoroughly proved himself a stubborn barrel pig. Kolohe Andino stood tall and strong — sporting 15 stitches in his chin — while driving through roping…
Kolohe Andino has been looking up to Taj Burrow since he was around 7 years old. Taj was his guy as a grom. And seeings how we’re officially calling Taj Burrow The World’s Greatest Professional Surfer of All-Time, it was only fitting that when the opportunity for Kolohe to do a trip to Indo with…