I have nothing to report.
I sit behind a computer all day and get drinks with girls at night.
Occasionally, I draw
missing the water.
Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.
I have nothing to report.
I sit behind a computer all day and get drinks with girls at night.
Occasionally, I draw
missing the water.
Photo captions suck because they’re easy to write instead of great to read.
Editor’s Note: Just a little magic for your day. Miki Dora, from Surfers: The Movie: “The competitive part of it all is a whole different ball game, a whole different camp. What I’m involved with, I don’t even think about it. I don’t wanna think about. It destroys for me the whole purpose of riding waves….
We met Yago Dora on this trip. The ever-smiling “Yogs.” Without much formality, we Instagram-directed him an invitation to come on the trip because we love his surfing and we’d heard he’s just a great dude to be around (he is). He changed a few plans and tickets and just like that he was in….
Editor’s Note: California is a magical place. Especially if you’re a photographer…right? Well it’s trickier than you think. Even with trains of NW swell stacking up in the Pacific. To get gold it takes a lot of homework and a good amount of luck to get the classic imagery you’re after — or maybe you should…
It was Wednesday morning when we picked up the big white van in Orange County. Planes took off from the nearby airport and the hustle of 8 a.m. was well underway. Donuts and smoothies were being consumed. People driving with eyes glued to their phones as we ticked the box on the rental agreement for…
Yesterday I watched one of my favorite surfers (Mason Ho) surf against Adriano de Souza in a heat that would decide the WSL World Title — and I found myself rooting for Adriano. I posted my feelings about it on Instagram at one point and was immediately berated for the opinion, which is fine, but…
There is a lot of testosterone in the air right now. People are SHOUTING. Good and bad. Tears are flowing and emotions are really raging. So let’s take a deep breath and remember how fun surfing is. Which is what Beau Foster’s new film “Shitkicker” is. And yes, we are very proud of Adriano DeSouza…
Every deadline has a personality. Traits that distinguish it from the last one faced, and this issue was no different. A temptress of the late night, our next book is lubricated with midnight oil, covered in many moon’s light, but in our experience, that’s where the good shit comes from. After a few weeks on…
Yesterday was a beautiful day in California. It was calm. Sunny. The waves were 3-foot. Football was on and mama was cooking chicken all across the land. But if you were a surf fan — like an online surf-watching Instagram-hound type of surf fan — yesterday was fucking stressful and emotional. The morning was high-octane. Greg Long…
Do surf magazines still matter? I’ve been asking myself this question for the last few months. It’s probably my growing older and wondering if kids these days think the same as I did. When I first had a dream to get a photo published, magazines were everything. Everything I would work for and spend money and…
[UPDATE: November 23, 2015]: Kieren Perrow and the WSL have officially awarded Bruce Irons the Wildcard for The Billabong Pipeline Masters. Bruce had this to say: “I’m so honored to be given the opportunity to compete in the Pipe Masters in memory of my brother,” Irons said. “I reached out to Kieren (Perrow) a couple of…
This is a little bit ridiculous, but I’m writing from a log on the beach surrounded by sand dollars while tethered to Internet from my futuristic iPhone. I’m watching Andrew Doheny, Dillon Perillo and Yago Dora rip a reform somewhere near the center of California. It aint perfect but it’s pretty damn fun and the…