Do you ever stop and think about why you surf? Why you wake up early? Try cutbacks? Search all over the globe for new places to try those cutbacks? And wonder what it’s all for? For lots of us when we’re young, it’s fun with our friends outside, and then if you do it enough, you start to hope to turn it into a job, because that’s what we do as kids. We dream. But at some point you grow older and realize your cutback isn’t exactly going to do much for humanity, and you begin surfing for other reasons. But you still surf. And you can’t help it. We’re blessed. And we’re cursed.
This new series will focus on a variety of surfing’s blessed and cursed. The characters who’s entire lives are based entirely around the oddest activity in the world: surfing. The guys who shape. Surf alone. Travel to the ends of the earth because they aren’t wired like most people. That’s really the only guideline: surfers who have found an excuse (that works) to surround themselves with surfing as much as possible.
Our first character study is Derrick Disney. A once up-and-coming “hot dog” surfer from California who abandoned his jersey and 5’10” to pick up rolls of fiberglass and a planer. He’s now glasser-shaper-gypsy by trade. Blessed. Cursed. And surfing every day.