The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun. Catch two waves and then your legs are tired. It’s been a while since you’ve surfed a wave this long. Bintang. Yep. It’s time for a drink and more gazing at half naked women on the dance floor while cold Bintang splashes on your toes. This seriously happens…—Nate Lawrence