Surfing, Skateboarding, Music, Photography, Travel, Culture and general antics of the youth on the run.

And then we went to France Collected Thoughts 069

09.24.14 – TAGS:

Editor’s note: We bought Quinn a ticket to France Sunday, right in the face of an Air France strike, making our purchase more expensive than we’d like, but the show must go on and the youth must run and Quinn must experience. Since then he’s landed in France. He’s hanging with the Hurley crew, waiting for the rest of our squad to arrive from Italy, Indo, Australia and California. Let’s see what Quinn got up to on day 1. Bon appetite Pinny! —Travis

We flew all day yesterday. I left LAX with Hurley Team Manager Brandon Guillmette Sunday afternoon with 3 board bags, an additional 4 checked bags and 4 carry-ons. The first flight to Munich was minor. I had some sleeping pills and dreamed of France the whole way. The next flight to Bilbao, Spain was a bit rough with the jet streams or whatever, but the cute stewardess’ made up for it. Lastly we drove 2 hours up to Hossegor and arrived at the lake house shortly after the sun had set. I slept like a baby. At least until Luis, Miguel Pupo’s filmer and my roommate showed up and started snoring. I couldn’t block it out so I got up at 2 a.m. to find Michel Bourez also up, so we watched a French documentary on Tupac.

A few hours later, but still long before the sun came up, Kolohe, Nat, Dino, Noah Alani, Brandon and I headed to a café and downed a few expressos each. We checked the surf. We didn’t find any sandbars anywhere; so we got grindy and surfed knee high waves for longer than anyone’s supposed to. Still jet lagged we all went back to sleep when we got home. Woke up a few hours later hungry, so we went to a buffet, got lost on the way, and ate ourselves into another food coma. We did the only reasonable thing and went back to bed. Woke up a few hours later tired and got another round of expressos, checked the surf. We couldn’t even find a wave to grind, but we did find Taj. Best thing ever. Again we did the only reasonable thing and went back to bed. Woke up a while later, and ate ourselves into another food coma. They’ve all gone to bed and I’m writing this. But I’m somehow still really tired so I’m trying to finish this fast since I’ve rambled on a bit. That was our first day.

France is a lot colder than I thought. —Quinn Matthews

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Craig Anderson, Mentawai Islands Collected Thoughts 111: Horrible waves in Indo aren’t that bad

“We hopped on the Bintang boat and got the best waves of our year. Shortly after, we got back on that same boat and got the worst waves of our year. Turns out, horrible waves in the Mentawais still aren’t that bad…” —Nate Lawrence

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Gunner Day Mind Pump Collected Thoughts 110

“A three week flat spell led to an over-hyped swell. The over-hyped swell led to a crowded lineup. The crowded lineup led to searching for other waves. Gunner Day. A first timer to the inside-mind-pump section.” —Nate Lawrence

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Have Surf Magazines Lost their Minds? Collected Thoughts 109

Have surf magazines lost their minds? First off, surf photographers have always been creepy people. Writers, not much better. But it seems in my years dealing with surf magazines that the people in charge are usually pretty turned on. They know how to make a very selfish sport look fun and inviting. I always looked…

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Too Much Perfect in Indonesia Collected Thoughts 108

Living in Bali has it’s perks. It’s cheap, warm and has waves all year round. It also has it’s downsides. Traffic, pollution and kooks. But the perfect waves always conquer the cons when contemplating if there is a better place to live. But just recently the perfect waves didn’t seem so perfect. I found myself…

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Nate Lawrence nearly robbed To get you this Collected Thought Number 107 lineup shot

I nearly got robbed trying to get a lineup shot. I probably deserved it though. After all, I am exposing surf spots. And taking photos of a wave and making it look prettier than it is. The wind? It was onshore. The crowd? It was packed. But that’s the thing with us sketchy photographers, it’s…

Dillon Perillo, Indo Collected Thoughts 106: “Dillon lost his mind out here, which is kind of like finding it for him.”

On an island in remote Indonesia, Dillon Perillo can finally surf again. 5 hour sessions in the middle of the day with no one out. And then again just before sunset. This is not Malibu. —Nate Lawrence

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Chippa Wilson on the “Duo”, Bali Collected Thoughts 105

I was pretty amazed when Chippa pulled out this Neil Purchase Jr surfboard with only 2 fins and decided to ride it at pumping Uluwatu. The takeoffs were late and the drops were steep, but it didn’t hinder Chippa’s surfing. The positions in which he was riding the waves were something I hadn’t seen before.

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The Bukit Peninsula Collected Thoughts 104

The warm water splashes on your toes as you pass mostly naked women on the beach on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula. Left, right, left. Your head can’t stop spinning. Then you see the waves. One, two, three, four. Lines stack up to the horizon and then you pick your time and go. Paddle towards the sun….

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Julian Wilson in Bali Collected Thoughts 103

Still think spraying someone who’s paddling over the shoulder is one of the best things (and brattiest) in surfing. Julian Wilson partakes in Bali recently. —Nate Lawrence

Collected Thoughts 101 Bronson Meidy

Bronson Meidy, 12, Keramas Collected Thoughts 102

There’s a new kid to the surf scene in Bali. His name is Bronson Meidy and he just turned 12 this week. I usually don’t like to say anything about kids this young because you just want them to be kids. Eating candy and shit. Not worrying about sponsors and sticker placement. Just going surfing…

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The Indian Ocean Spotlight: beach parties, waves and Scandinavian women Collected Thoughts 101

The Indian Ocean is back in the spotlight. Swells are stacking up and surfers are busy paying excess baggage on flights. So what’s new? It’s still hot, dirty and full of Brazilians. There’s still corruption and crazy tourists. People are still getting crunched my motorbikes daily. But there are parties every night and Scandinavian women…

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Chippa Wilson, Bali 2016 Collected Thoughts 100

“Sometimes it feels so good to dig your back hand in the water and do a nice Larry layback. Chippa in Bali recently unveiling his new Brixton stickers.” —Nate Lawrence

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