Editor’s Note: Just a little magic for your day.
Miki Dora, from Surfers: The Movie: “The competitive part of it all is a whole different ball game, a whole different camp. What I’m involved with, I don’t even think about it. I don’t wanna think about. It destroys for me the whole purpose of riding waves.
I don’t like noises. I don’t like crowds. I don’t like bullhorns going off. People giving you orders on how to ride. How to do certain maneuvers. All this is beyond my comprehension of pleasure.
Now what motivates these people is, ah, I don’t even want to think about it. It has nothing to do with me. I don’t wanna think about it. It has nothing to do with me, but that’s their life and that’s their direction. They’re probably the best in the world, and all professional athletes are the same. In Mexico, riding a few waves, clean water, no pollution, and I see my friend [Martin] Potter riding these damn waves, milking them dry. Fantastic. I like his style. I like the way he does things. He looks unique to me. I wish him all the luck in the world, in his direction, I hope he doesn’t self destruct or disintegrate in the process. These 90 day wonders, two year wonders, here today, gone tomorrow, he looks like he’s going to be here, I don’t know how long. If he keeps that attitude going.”